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Routes in New Wave Wall

Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Point Break S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description

The New Wave Wall is one of the many high quality sport cliffs at Windy point. It is different however in its consistently gently overhanging nature and an abundance of super high quality 5.12 climbs. The wall faces northwest and always has shade in the mornings. All older bolts and pins have been replaced with new bolts. All the routes demand stamina and strong fingers.

Getting There

To reach New Wave Wall, park at the Windy Point Vista lot or at a pullout at mile 14.3 on the south side of the road. Head down the slope on the south side of the road toward the Hunchback (it is the tower with the kickass arete that is easily visible from the road). Before you get to the Hunchback, turn left and walk under the Wind Wall (the large wavey wall). When you near the end of the Wind Wall trend right and down the slope until you can scramble up to the base of the New Wall. It is recognizable by its gently overhanging face peppered with bolts. The approach should take 5 minutes. Alternate approaches are possible if you parked lower on the road and don't mind scrambling.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wave Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
The Lady Don't Mind
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 67
Holey Moley
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 70
Tsunami
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 29
New Wave Direct
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Point Break
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Lady Don't Mind
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Holey Moley
 67
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tsunami
 70
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
New Wave Direct
 29
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Point Break
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Wave Wall »

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Photos

On the route "Change In Luck" (New Wave Wall) there looks to be about 20 feet of run out from the last bolt on the overhanging face to the last bolt of "Skid Mark" below the shared chains. Is there a bolt for "Change In Luck" above the ledge that I just can't find? It looks like a big whipper if you miss the clip on the highest bolt. Maybe that is why the route name is what it is. It looks like it can be protected with gear but the guidebooks indicate it is a sport route. Nov 16, 2008
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
If the upper runout of C of L is bothering you, I think (it's been a LONG time) you can get a cam in up high to lessen the anxiety. Nov 16, 2008
Thanks Jbak. I did watch a climber on the route opt instead for down climbing to the top bolt on the overhanging face and get lowered off on a bail biner. He expressed, in colorful language, that it was unreasonably run out for a "Sport Route". Had I not seen him climb it, I would not think to carry gear either. The "Rock Climbing Arizona" guide indicates a bolt on the ledge. Once again, not all topos are accurate.
--Mark Nov 18, 2008
Hey does anyone know anything about the crack up the center of this wall as an all gear route? It seems like the most obivious and aesthetic line on the wall. I read something on here about it being done as a mixed route. Has it gone on all gear and if so whats the grade/risk factor? Thanks, Alex Nov 29, 2010
Route used to go on gear and drilled pins. It would be a little spicy on gear alone. Nov 29, 2010
Justin Turner
Cave Creek, AZ
Justin Turner   Cave Creek, AZ
Left pair of tan Petzl belay gloves on the rocks near base of Holey Moley on Saturday, 9/7. Please contact Justin at 602-618-7883 if found. THX Sep 7, 2013

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