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Routes in New Wave Wall

Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Point Break S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ron Farrel, Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1990
Page Views: 399 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on May 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is essentially two boulder problems down low separated by a good rest (one powerful, one off-balance and technical). After this, easier climbing on incut holds leads through a 20-25 foot runout onto a ledge, with a bolt high above it that will be very difficult for someone short to clip if the draw isn't already hung. Take a deep breath and get through it- the climbing to the ledge and pulling onto it isn't hard and you can get several good, restful stances. After you are standing on the ledge and make the hard clip, find your way through the confusing last few feet to clip the chains (which would also be hard to clip for anyone short).

Location

Between Holey Moley and Change in Luck.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

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