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Routes in New Wave Wall

Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Point Break S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cyrena Goodrich, Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1989
Page Views: 227 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tomily ma on Mar 22, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

In case you forgot your rack was in your bag and you find yourself at New Wave Wall, this is a fun little bit of trad for you. It climbs the crack/seam to the right of Wavy Gravy before travesing left, joining up before the roof and sharing anchors. Thought provoking stems, mantles, and whatnot with good stances to place gear.

The crux for me was deciding when to traverse left: too early and it looks harder too late and you run out of good pro until the roof. I chose the latter straight up to the roof and enjoyed it. I then back cleaned the pro in the roof once I clipped the first bolt to avoid drag. You probably don't need to bother with that gear unless you have kids or traverse left earlier.

Location

Not actually on New Wave Wall but on a separate formation to the climber's left when looking at NWW. Right of Wavy Gravy on the same formation.

Protection

Standard rack. 1 very solid piton. Bolts after the traverse left. Anchors have rap rings.

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Climber's left isn't it? Mar 22, 2016