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New Wave Wall
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 3 - Windy Point East
Description
The New Wave Wall is one of the many high quality sport cliffs at Windy point. It is different however in its consistently gently overhanging nature and an abundance of super high quality 5.12 climbs. The wall faces northwest and always has shade in the mornings. All older bolts and pins have been replaced with new bolts. All the routes demand stamina and strong fingers.
Getting There
To reach New Wave Wall, park at the Windy Point Vista lot or at a pullout at mile 14.3 on the south side of the road. Head down the slope on the south side of the road toward the Hunchback (it is the tower with the kickass arete that is easily visible from the road). Before you get to the Hunchback, turn left and walk under the Wind Wall (the large wavey wall). When you near the end of the Wind Wall trend right and down the slope until you can scramble up to the base of the New Wall. It is recognizable by its gently overhanging face peppered with bolts. The approach should take 5 minutes. Alternate approaches are possible if you parked lower on the road and don't mind scrambling.
[Hide Photo] This is what is sitting on top of the new wave wall!
[Hide Photo] Be careful on the final part of the trail to the wall. Recent rain has washed away the part of the trail adjacent to the retained gully. Jan '23
[Hide Photo] Photo Beta: decent vantage points from top of the cliffs for photos (this is Holey Moley)
[Hide Comment] On the route "Change In Luck" (New Wave Wall) there looks to be about 20 feet of run out from the last bolt on the overhanging face to the last bolt of "Skid Mark" below the shared chains. Is there a bolt for "Change In Luck" above the ledge that I just can't find? It looks like a big whipper if you miss the clip on the highest bolt. Maybe that is why the route name is what it is. It looks like it can be protected with gear but the guidebooks indicate it is a sport route.
Nov 16, 2008
[Hide Comment] If the upper runout of C of L is bothering you, I think (it's been a LONG time) you can get a cam in up high to lessen the anxiety.
Nov 16, 2008
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jbak. I did watch a climber on the route opt instead for down climbing to the top bolt on the overhanging face and get lowered off on a bail biner. He expressed, in colorful language, that it was unreasonably run out for a "Sport Route". Had I not seen him climb it, I would not think to carry gear either. The "Rock Climbing Arizona" guide indicates a bolt on the ledge. Once again, not all topos are accurate. --Mark
Nov 18, 2008
[Hide Comment] Hey does anyone know anything about the crack up the center of this wall as an all gear route? It seems like the most obivious and aesthetic line on the wall. I read something on here about it being done as a mixed route. Has it gone on all gear and if so whats the grade/risk factor? Thanks, Alex
Nov 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] Between the evening of Thursday March 21 and Friday March 22, someone stripped and stole my draws off of New Wave Direct on this wall. They were purple Petzl Djinn draws. If you have any further information about this incident, please let me know. We believe we know who did it. However, more information to confirm would be appreciated.
And just a reminder to those who think this kind of behavior is okay: the climbing community is small, most of us watch out for one another, and it’s bad karma to climb on stolen draws.
Mar 24, 2024
[Hide Comment] On 10/28 I took out a block from Modern Times (close to around the last bolt) which had no indication of being lose or even close to coming off the wall. Wanted to remind everyone to wear a helmet at this crag, even though the rock is “solid”, it did end up coming off the wall and unfortunately I had my dog here with me and it broke his leg. The rock could’ve easily hit my partner or the other parties next to us at the wall. I’ve been to this wall a few times and never experienced this, but even on well trafficked routes, it can happen!
Oct 29, 2024
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tucson, az
--Mark Nov 18, 2008
Tucson
Colorado
And just a reminder to those who think this kind of behavior is okay: the climbing community is small, most of us watch out for one another, and it’s bad karma to climb on stolen draws. Mar 24, 2024
Arizona