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Routes in The Ravens

Block Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Capillary Attraction S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
El Curvo S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Epic Commander T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hails Bails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hotshot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layer Cake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left Ventricle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemmon Meringue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Streaks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Luke Slingwalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MoMo Buttress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On A Wing And A Prayer S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Organized Labor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pooter Chainsaw Massacre S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rantin' & Raven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Raven Maniac S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Ventricle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shenanigans S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stint S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swing Set S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dean Brault, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Jim Scott, & Steve Johnson (2001)
Page Views: 763 total, 14/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jul 14, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Found in the awe inspiring chimney between Raven B and Raven C Block Party rises 95ft. Start from the prominent chokestones and stem for 25 feet on dubious rock to the first bolt. From here continue to stem, clipping the second bolt, before finally committing to the vertical face of Raven B. Delicate, interesting, and sometimes mentally committing moves lead to a no hands rest. Savor this rest before engaging the crimps and edges of the crux. From the undercling trend right on Fortress-like rock to the chains.

Location

This line is located in the chimney between Raven B and Raven C. It starts off the two prominent chockstones.

Protection

Approximately a dozen quickdraws to a bolted anchor.

The first bolt is approximately 25 feet of the ground. While the climbing is not very hard and includes two massive chockstones, the initial section of rock is abysmal so the leader should move with care. A C4 #0.75 could potentially protect the leader but the flake is of dubious strength.

Overall the route is very safe on quality rock. That said the climbing felt slightly more committing than most modern clip-ups.

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11+ PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11+ PG13
PG-13 mainly b/c of the rock quality down low, if you pick your stemming footholds carefully this is a pretty safe route. Much safer than it looks at first. Sep 2, 2017