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Routes in Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs

Click Your Heels S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowardly Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dancing Dwarfs S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emerald City S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flying Monkeys S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horse Of A Different Color S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scarecrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tin Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, Jay Ladin (1994)
Page Views: 1,165 total, 13/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Sep 18, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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11 Opinions

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Description

Two pitches of fantastic sport climbing. Recommended.

Pitch 1 (90 ft, 5.11a, BC): Featured tan rock leads to a beautiful corner; pull onto a ledge and finish on devious, slightly overhanging, blocky rock.

Pitch 2 (50 ft, 5.10d, BC): Round the exposed corner and ascend face.

Location

Second route from the right. Look for the obvious corner.

Protection

Bolts and chains. If both pitches are climbed two rappels are required to descend.

The first pitch consists of 13 bolts and two sets of anchors. The first set of anchors are open shuts and are optimal for the single pitch variation. The second set are above the ledge are best for belaying on the second pitch.

If the pitches are linked shoulder length slings are recommended where the second pitch traverses under the roof.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
The line is at times non-obvious and wanders around to either side of the bolt line. That being said, the climbing itself is really good and the position, especially on the second pitch, is great.
Rapping after the second pitch was a bit difficult: the line of descent is quite a ways out from the lower anchors and leaves you hanging in space. I had to swing my partner over to them from above. If you want to do the second pitch it's probably best to lower the leader back to the belay. Otherwise tag an extra line and double rope rap from the top of the second to the base. Aug 4, 2015
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
The best route I have done in the area! Fun balance moves lead to jug hauling and the money moves at the end. It is at the very far right end of the wall just to the left of the obvious broken blocky corner (Flying Monkeys). Highly recommended Jul 27, 2012