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Routes in Knights Wall

Gneiss Boys S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knights of the Wrong Tissue S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Palms Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger - 1983
Page Views: 1,038 total, 22/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Dec 30, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Like many of the climbs on the wall, this one begins pretty thin and becomes more featured on the way to the anchors. The path is somewhat circuitous and takes some figuring out. Along the way there are plenty of crimps, jugs, a few rests, even some mantling and a slab finish thrown in for good measure.

Location

This route begins midway down the wall. The start is easily found as it begins off of a large slab boulder that meets the base of the wall. If you can see the top of the wall you can also find the route as it has a set of black cold shuts as anchors.

Protection

9 bolts to cold shut anchors.

Hardware replaced Feb 2015 by Luke Bertelsen using ASCA equipment.

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for the hard work Luke. I will have my bolt puller in town shortly and hopefully it will help make the work easier. Feb 25, 2015
Four hours start to finish seems about right as I don't think you can walk to the top. Seems reasonable for a person who has put in a 10,000 less bolts than you and is just figuring it out. Final word, BOSONS SEAT! Feb 22, 2015
Jimbo  
Strong work Luke!

If it took you four hours to replace the bolts on this you need better power tools. 18 volt cut off wheels, and one of Geir's awesome bolt puller rigs would do you fine and save you time. Feb 19, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
I will have to remember before and after for the next route I visit for hardware updates.

I wanted to work on this route for awhile and it was kind of a tester for me in terms of the time investment to update an entire route. Pretty sure I clocked in at around 4 hours all said and done. Feb 18, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Yeah Luke!!!

Do you have any before/after pics? Thanks! Feb 17, 2015
Way to go Luke! Feb 17, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Thanks for the hardware upgrade Luke. I added a note to the route description. Feb 16, 2015
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
This route is a hog's farm worth of fun. If you are looking for a 12- mid-mtn, this should be on your list. May 28, 2014
"Canada" Eric Ruljancich  
  5.12a/b
This is definitely under the radar, but really shouldn't be. Great climbing with interesting moves, and even some jugs thrown in to keep your finger tendons happy.

The hike down from the pullout isn't too bad either. Just carefully scramble down the West face of Knights wall. If you are standing under the Golden Egg, hike back up hill towards the highway, and then head down when you can fully see the wall. Watch out for loose gravel, and sharp things. Should take you under 5 minutes.

Get on it eh? May 28, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
Definitely an under-the-radar classic. There's even some history- when I did it there were a couple bolts with bed frame hangers! The movement through the giant scoop is really cool. Jan 10, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
I personally think this is an under the radar classic Lemmon sport climb. If you have climbed Tsunami, New Wave, Time the Avenger, Honker, etc. you need to add this to the list of climbs you are happy to do more than once.

Unfortunately the last round of road construction left the gully a bit of a mess. Take care when hiking down to the climbs. Dec 30, 2013