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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assault with Battery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Spree S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crime and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prison Overcrowding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sentenced Traverse V4 6B
Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Shiefman, ERuljancich, HUzzelle, JBak, May 2010 (drilled by Jbak on a wet, snowy day, Dec 2006)
Page Views: 4,199 total, 32/month
Shared By: jbak on Mar 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE. The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be). Crimpy, espec. up high.

Location

To the right of SENTENCED TO HANG, two routes start off a ledge about 6 feet off the deck. The left-hand of the two routes is JAILBREAK.

Protection

bolts and chains
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12
hahaha those name are funny! May 21, 2010
Think you could come up with a better name. A Life Of Climb, 3 Year Stretch, Life Behind Knee Bars (not applicable but I like it), Hard Labor, Dept. of Rejections, Life Ascentence. Too much time on my hands. ME, that isn't a name. May 21, 2010
Although a little crimpy in places this is one of the best lines at Jailhouse. Fun, balancy, and sequential movement with no rests the entire way. May 16, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I like Sentenced and Armed Robbery alot, but IMO Jailbreak is the best route at the crag. May 15, 2010
Great job Joe! Way to stick with it. 3 stars from me. The thing that makes it great is that it is so sustained. Didn't find any big rests as on many of the routes on this cliff. No single super hard move but a lot of hard moves in a row and these make finishing it off difficult. One of the best routes at the crag. May 14, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Doing that route an such an ADVANCED age is very impressive. May 14, 2010
lamina  
JOE!!!!! a little belated CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Sooooo happy to learn of this!!! Wish I was there to cheer for your FA! May 13, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12
CONGRATS JOE!!!!!! Ditto Jimbo's comments - your perserverence is inspiring!!! May 9, 2010
Jimbo  
Awesome, Joe!!

You are a shining example of perserverance for all of us!!
May 8, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Nice job Joe!!!!! May 8, 2010
Hampton Uzzelle
Tucson, Arizona
Hampton Uzzelle   Tucson, Arizona
Congratulations- That was one well deserved redpoint! I know you're psyched Joe. May 8, 2010
Freedom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Way to go Joe! Perseverance does indeed pay off. There was certainly one psyched Lil Bull at the chains.

@john: Very witty there wordsmith May 8, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Nice Joe! Great to hear that you triumphed. May 7, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
May 7, 2010: Pima County Sheriff's office reports that Joseph "Lil Bull" Shiefman broke out of jail sometime in the early PM. He was aided in his escape by one Eric Ruljancich who brazenly used a rope to help Shiefman make his way up a wall, and thence to freedom. May 7, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
ouch Mar 18, 2010
Seems more like Life Without Parole! Mar 18, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Alternate name: Statute of Limitations

Seriously though Joe, you dialed in that route at Homme Depot pretty fast. I think you're ready for Jailbreak.

My list of undone projects is now about as long as my arm. Feb 14, 2010
JoeS  
Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA.

This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times too nyumerous to count, well intending folks come up and ask "Hey, you get your project yet?". Even one or two folks whom I had never seen in my life have come up to me and asked if I sent my project.

I'm obsessing. It's not that large a problem in the scheme of things.

Bottom line, I haven't been on it for months again, but I'm climbing stronger than I was before and am pschyed to get it this spring, starting when the temps in town get above 80 degrees. I will even committ 3-4 days a week until it sends (if I can get someone to catch me)

I really appreciate everyone's patience and encouragement, and I will post it immediately once it gos, hopefully soon.

Joe Feb 13, 2010
Still red-tagged. Feb 11, 2010
Neill Prohaska
Tucson, AZ
Neill Prohaska   Tucson, AZ
Not still red-tagged, is it? Feb 11, 2010
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Yes...still red-tagged. Jan 2, 2009
Jimbo  
If Joe has finally sent this thing all the bolt hangers should be there. If not you might want to give it a serious once over before you start up, as a hanger or two might not be there. Jan 2, 2009
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
Is this route still red-tagged? Dec 31, 2008