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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assault with Battery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Spree S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crime and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prison Overcrowding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sentenced Traverse V4 6B
Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Chris Henze 1988
Page Views: 7,432 total, 49/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jun 3, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The climb ascends overhanging water polished rock. Moves are long and powerful between good holds with the crux pulling on smaller holds with the same long moves. Although only 50ft. long it takes some good endurance to make it to the top. Add the boulder traverse from the start of Crime and Punishment into the climb (V6) and it is 13a.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors. May also be top roped by walking around to the top.
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
New ASCA anchor bolts and the last two original bolts have been replaced with 1/2 inch Rawl 5 piece bolts from the ASCA. The quicklinks and mussys need to be moved down to the new anchor. I didn't have a crescent wrench to loosen the quicklinks on the mussys. Mar 22, 2014
dah3586
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
dah3586   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b/c
Cliff Rylands sending Sentenced to Hang (5.12b), Prison Camp, Mt. Lemmon, AZ, 22 Sep 2012

youtube.com/watch?feature=p…

Also, we both got on this a month after sending Tsunami and thought it was harder... but maybe we just sucked at bouldering at the time.

Additionally, there is a SWEET rest on the flake on Tsunami just before the crux, if you climb super efficient and milk the rest like we both did I think you'll find that to be ever so slightly easier than Sentenced. Both 12b. Milanoma at the Beach is def 12c, in my opinion. Feb 21, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Yeah guys! May 6, 2012
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Congrats to Clay and Liam for their super smooth Redpoints.
Was surprised when Liam said it was his first 12. They both made it look like a steep 5.9 May 4, 2012
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Added Mussy hooks to anchors. Jan 1, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
Way to go Christian! Nov 5, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
a HUGE congrats to Christian Rodenbeck for his send of this route Oct 31 - his first 5.12!! Nov 4, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski
  5.12b/c
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.12b/c
Got on this for the first time today, and liked it so much it's now at the top of my project list. Super fun, lots of variety, and well-bolted. Mar 1, 2009
Jimbo  
The two climbs are apples and oranges. Sentenced is burly, steep and positive while The Wizard is thin and technical. Sort of depends on what your good at. Dec 4, 2008
iancevans  
 
This feels easier to me than the Wizard over in Milagrosa, whose consensus grade is 12a. The Wizard is more sustained and has some very difficult clips and its longer and there are a lot of terrible holds (of course, it's less steep and the moves aren't as big). Am I crazy?

Anyway, this is a beautiful line with an exciting technical crux and a (for me) difficult redpoint crux (turning the bulge before the chains). Dec 3, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Yes. I definitely will lead this route next time I am at this wall. So maybe the rating is 11c/d for a toprope hangdog, 12a/b for a redpoint and 12c for a flash! ...and 13a if you do it with your eyes closed! Jun 12, 2007
Jimbo  
There isn't a move on Sentenced to Hang that is as hard as the opening moved on Crime Spree. Sentenced gets the 5.12- because it's steep and there are a bunch of 5.11 moves. If you put a bunch more 5.11d moves on Sentenced it would be 5.12c/d. Crime Spree has a hard start but the rest of the climbing is easier than Sentenced.
P.S. You should stop top roping these climbs and start leading them, they are well bolted and you'll be a better climber for it. Jun 11, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I almost want to say that this route is easier than the start to climb spree (on toprope)! But maybe a lead will change that idea. Jun 6, 2007
Jimbo  
OK, Tsunami is definitely a letter grade harder than Sentenced to Hang.
So there you have it. Apr 6, 2007
Jimbo  
I'm off to Tsumami tomorrow, then I'll give you the true scoop on which is harder. Unless I'm having a bad day, or it's too cold, or too hot, or the wind is blowing...... Stay tuned...
Apr 4, 2007
jbak
  5.12a/b
jbak  
  5.12a/b
Jim, the way you hiked it, no wonder you think it's easy. Mar 30, 2007
Jimbo  
I think Sentenced to Hang is easier than Tsunami. There are two good rests on Sentenced and no rests on Tsunami. Mar 28, 2007
jbak
  5.12a/b
jbak  
  5.12a/b
So you hate to see it down-rated ? Or you hate to agree with me ?

Hell I was hoping Luke was right and I'm getting stronger. Mar 26, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
Sorry Luke and as much as I hate to admit it, Jbak is right, the route is 12b. Perhaps the exposure got to you. Or maybe the holds not having tape goofed up your sequence. Just messing with you Luke. If you get on it again I think you might agree with Jbak. Mar 26, 2007
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Honestly the rating debates get to be a little much, but here goes. I thought Sentenced was and is harder than Tsunami on New Wave. I climbed it a couple of weekends ago and still think it is. Additionally, just because something becomes "easier" for a given climber does not mean the climb is easier. People never seem to conisder they might just be getting stronger. At any rating it is a great climb.

Have not had the chance yet, but I am psyched to get on the new routes down there. Thanks to all of the developers and people maintaining our crags. Mar 24, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
Replaced all the 5/16ths button heads with 3/8ths stainless as well as the rusty looking first bolt. All were in good condition and would have lasted another 20 years. Now it's good to go for a long time. Mar 6, 2007
jbak
  5.12a/b
jbak  
  5.12a/b
I believe you brother. I trusted them enough to risk some good plunkers. Are they stainless ? I noticed that wall gets a lot of seepage after a snowstorm. Great route, it climbs better than it looks and it doesn't look bad at all. Feb 22, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
Those buttonheads are 5/16ths bolts. Go to any bolt safety site and they will tell you how tough they are. They are as strong as any 3/8th bolt as they have no threads. This means they are as strong. Ask Jerry Cagle or Geir how hard they are to remove. We took a bunch out when we rebolted Warpaint. On top of that they are in the hardest rock we climb on in S. Arizona. If you want to replace them feel free Jbak. Just don't make it impossible for me to clip them. Feb 22, 2007
jbak
  5.12a/b
jbak  
  5.12a/b
This is a really good route. It may be on my "top ten 5.12s in So AZ" list. The buttonheads got my attention too, but I swallowed hard and ignored them. Closer to 12b than 12c. I'm surprised my old buddy Chris Henze never talked this route up to me. Feb 22, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12
Hey Luke, why should several of the bolts be replaced? If they are 5/16th buttonheads (I can't remember) they are as strong as a 3/8ths. The SMC Hangers are the newer safe ones. The rock there is as hard as any in southern AZ. Go to Safe Climbing .org or whatever it is called and ask them how safe the bolts that you say need to be replaced are. I will take twenty twenty footers on all but the lowest bolts. You might want to do a bit of research before you start typing! Mar 11, 2006