Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Doug Lantz, Ben Burnam 1988
Page Views: 3,221 total · 18/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Feb 14, 2004 with updates from Jon Ruland
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

44 Opinions

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This is the obvious chimney/crack system near the left end of Jailhouse Rock. At the top of the left pillar you can see the anchors for this climb.

Near the bottom of the route the rock quality isn't very good but the climbing is easy. After about 15 feet the rock improves and the real climbing begins. From here you can stem, jam, or climb the face (take your pick) to the base of an easy 10-foot hard to protect chimney that leads to the anchors.


Standard rack - stoppers and cams from .5 to 4". This route has some of the best stopper placements around.


Vincent Greene  
Fun easy route that protects easily. There are enough bomber stopper placements that this could easily go with a passive only rack. I think it is closer to 5.7 than 5.6. Feb 15, 2004
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
Totally 5.3, no harder no way. great climb though. Dec 12, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
very cool and unusual route for mount lemmon. lots of jams to be had, or you can just stem and climb the fact if jamming isn't your thing. even the easy, unprotected chimney at the top is tons of fun. Nov 25, 2015
Lana dude
Lana dude  
Good for a new trad leader with standard rack. Smooth rock. Jan 4, 2016
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
It's about 5.5 or 5.6, a fun crack/chimney with loads of big supplemental edges and ledges. Protects well aside from the finishing chimney, bring a couple #3 camalots if you want to really sew it up. There is gear in the final chimney too, but it's not as obvious. Feb 15, 2016
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
Enjoyable gear lead. I liked the stemming and its a fun climb. Feb 13, 2018