Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Geir Hundal and a host of good belayers.
Page Views: 2,275 total · 16/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Oct 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

A good possibly great route with fun moves and multiple cruxes. This route was done entirely from the ground and was never top-roped by Geir which makes it a proud first ascent. Geir figured out all the moves and protection by starting from the ground and climbing until he fell off. Tons of falls including a couple of 20 footers make his efforts noteworthy. Add to that the fact he has only ever done a handful of 5.12 sport routes and I have to tip my hat to him.

The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it. The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing. If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on. IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT. At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top. This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.

Location

This route starts up Crime and Punishment and moves left at the horizontal then follows the thin crack. It stays right of the anchors for Yard Boss until you are too high to use them. The anchors for this route are above the horn you see on the skyline.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 Camalot

Photos