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> Jailhouse Rock
Just Punishment
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
Routes in Jailhouse Rock
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Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assault with Battery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big House, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb Spree S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crime and Punishment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Time T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prison Overcrowding S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sentenced Traverse V4 6B |
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Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thief T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Geir Hundal and a host of good belayers. |
| Page Views: | 2,558 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Oct 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A good possibly great route with fun moves and multiple cruxes. This route was done entirely from the ground and was never top-roped by Geir which makes it a proud first ascent. Geir figured out all the moves and protection by starting from the ground and climbing until he fell off. Tons of falls including a couple of 20 footers make his efforts noteworthy. Add to that the fact he has only ever done a handful of 5.12 sport routes and I have to tip my hat to him.
The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it. The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing. If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on. IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT. At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top. This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.
The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it. The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing. If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on. IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT. At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top. This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.
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