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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assault with Battery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Spree S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crime and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prison Overcrowding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sentenced Traverse V4 6B
Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Geir Hundal and a host of good belayers.
Page Views: 1,798 total, 18/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Oct 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

A good possibly great route with fun moves and multiple cruxes. This route was done entirely from the ground and was never top-roped by Geir which makes it a proud first ascent. Geir figured out all the moves and protection by starting from the ground and climbing until he fell off. Tons of falls including a couple of 20 footers make his efforts noteworthy. Add to that the fact he has only ever done a handful of 5.12 sport routes and I have to tip my hat to him.

The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it. The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing. If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on. IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT. At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top. This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.

Location

This route starts up Crime and Punishment and moves left at the horizontal then follows the thin crack. It stays right of the anchors for Yard Boss until you are too high to use them. The anchors for this route are above the horn you see on the skyline.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 Camalot
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Suh-weet Canada Eric!!!!! Love the matching photos! Nov 8, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Strong!!! Nov 7, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12
CONGRATS to "Canada" Eric Ruljancich for bagging the third ascent today!!! Awesome send my friend! Nov 6, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12
thanks very much to all of you!

one anecdote from tuesday:

EFR helped me work the route through the day. we arrived in the morning and didn't get out of there until dusk. in the afternoon shade it got pretty cold and windy.

as we were wrapping up eric decided to take another run on it. he was pretty darn tired from climbing three hard days in a row, but climbed anyway. (he's an animal).

...and he sent! just goes to show how determination and the right attitude can be even more important than feeling strong or ideal conditions. Oct 22, 2009
Going British on us. Cheers! Oct 22, 2009
Nice job Geir!! And, I hear you did it in a nice pure style. Oct 22, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Strong work, Geir! Sounds like an appropriate name, too. Oct 21, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
niiiiiiiiiice! now i can't wait to get on this thang. :) Oct 21, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Nice man! Oct 20, 2009
Proud send my friend. Oct 20, 2009
Toofast  
(wagging tail) Oct 20, 2009
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Woooooohooooooo!!!!! This is fantastic, Geir ;) Way to go! Oct 20, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12
Special thanks to Christian Rodenbeck, Eric Ruljancich, and EFR for catching my many falls and helping me figure out the beta for this climb. It was awesome fun!

Also thanks to EFR for the belay today, and congrats on the second ascent! Oct 20, 2009