Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo
Sort Route Route Details
Suggest Change:
Description Protection
Other Suggestion
Add To Page
Photo Photo (copy)
All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Jailhouse Rock

Safecracker

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 2.5 from 44 votes

Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assault with Battery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Spree S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crime and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prison Overcrowding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sentenced Traverse V4 6B
Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Henze, Cyrena Goodrich & Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1988
Page Views: 2,580 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 25, 2005 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


44 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route ascends small ledges leading to a thin crack which takes you to a set of chain anchors. It overhangs slightly and is very pumpy. There are good gear placements, but the climbing is tiring. I have seen some good leader falls on this line. It is to the left of the prominent crack system of Crime and Punishment on Jailhouse Rock.

Protection

This route is mostly gear (small to medium cams or mid-sized nuts) with one bolt and chain anchors at the top. It can be toproped if someone wants to walk around to the top and descend to the anchors. Be careful

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

My cracker ass cracking the safe the easy way, with pre-placed gear..Outstanding route...<br> <br> <br> <br>
My cracker ass cracking the safe the easy way,…
 1
Safe not cracked this day.
Safe not cracked this day.
 1
Access Denied! (Photo by Elisa Phillips)
Access Denied! (Photo by Elisa Phillips)
 0
Working on my first 5.11 trad send. (Photo by Elisa Phillips)
Working on my first 5.11 trad send. (Photo by E…
 0
Elisa onsighting on a cold windy day.
Elisa onsighting on a cold windy day.
 0
Clip...
Clip...
 0
Gier walking up.
Gier walking up.
 0
Mark attempts to crack this safe
Mark attempts to crack this safe
 0

6 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Good small wires and a very small cam can be found just before the final crux but you need some hang on to get them. Mar 6, 2007
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
This is a great, fun route. The gear is quite good, but it gets a bit spaced out toward the top of the climb. The final crux can be protected nicely with a blue alien and a yellow alien. Apr 21, 2009
Clay Mansfield
 
Clay Mansfield  
 
You don't hear much about this route, but I thought it was great. Really excited to get on it again. Feb 17, 2011
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Really fun route that protects perfectly well on just nuts. Also, as of today there is a small nut fixed just below the crux (My partner didn't try cleaning it, so I'm not sure how hard it would be to get out). May 15, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
the fixed nut is gone but i wouldn't be surprised if another one shows up there soon. i almost fixed one of mine in its place after just a short fall.

BETA ALERT
i thought the technical crux of this route was the bolt protected section down low but the overall crux for me was hanging on to place gear up high. you can actually sew this thing up pretty tight but like eric said you'll need some serious hang on. Oct 24, 2016
CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ  
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018

More About Safecracker

Printer-Friendly