Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Henze, Cyrena Goodrich & Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1988
Page Views: 2,632 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 25, 2005 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This route ascends small ledges leading to a thin crack which takes you to a set of chain anchors. It overhangs slightly and is very pumpy. There are good gear placements, but the climbing is tiring. I have seen some good leader falls on this line. It is to the left of the prominent crack system of Crime and Punishment on Jailhouse Rock.

Protection

This route is mostly gear (small to medium cams or mid-sized nuts) with one bolt and chain anchors at the top. It can be toproped if someone wants to walk around to the top and descend to the anchors. Be careful

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Good small wires and a very small cam can be found just before the final crux but you need some hang on to get them. Mar 6, 2007
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
This is a great, fun route. The gear is quite good, but it gets a bit spaced out toward the top of the climb. The final crux can be protected nicely with a blue alien and a yellow alien. Apr 21, 2009
You don't hear much about this route, but I thought it was great. Really excited to get on it again. Feb 17, 2011
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Really fun route that protects perfectly well on just nuts. Also, as of today there is a small nut fixed just below the crux (My partner didn't try cleaning it, so I'm not sure how hard it would be to get out). May 15, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
the fixed nut is gone but i wouldn't be surprised if another one shows up there soon. i almost fixed one of mine in its place after just a short fall.

BETA ALERT
i thought the technical crux of this route was the bolt protected section down low but the overall crux for me was hanging on to place gear up high. you can actually sew this thing up pretty tight but like eric said you'll need some serious hang on. Oct 24, 2016
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018