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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

Armed Robbery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assault with Battery S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb Spree S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cold Hand Luke T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crime and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Prince S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Theft Otto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jailbreak S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Punishment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Petty Theft T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prison Overcrowding S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Safecracker T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sentenced To Hang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sentenced Traverse V4 6B
Solitary Refinement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yard Boss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Ron Farrel 1988
Page Views: 3,483 total · 21/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Aug 30, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This route is on Jailhouse proper. It is just left of Armed Robbery, the excellent, water polished crack climb. Climb steep rock past bolt to a midway point where it is possible to place small nuts and tcu. Crux is climbing above gear past some awkward and balancey moves.

Protection

Light rack with good selection of TCUs.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Redpointed today. Felt harder than histo, but I was also pretty hung over... Either way, a great climb. Mar 27, 2016
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Got on this today after some time up at the goosehead. Great climb with lots of variation. I came off just after trying to head straight up off the bolt. Hung for a minute then tried heading slightly right (to a little fingerlock-able v-slot) which was much easier, but still a bit tricky.
Also, I noticed that in some comments it sounds like people are heading left after the bolt to the low set of anchors. Is this the intended finish? Heading up to the big ledge and the higher anchors definitely seemed like the obvious line.
As for the gear: nuts (as noted) work really well for most of the climb, and cams can usually be wiggled in behind a constriction (which would prevent their skating out). Definitely don't expect cams in flared placements to be life-savers on this one. May 8, 2015
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
 
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
 
fun ass climb thats for sure Apr 4, 2014
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
The rest of the route after the bolt is difficult. I cruised through the first section up to the bolt then took a big fall from the chains on the bolt 10 feet below. Scary. Ill have to come back and get the redpoint soon. Best advice is to clip the bolt, get a rest, and head up and left to the chains as fast as possible. Dec 22, 2012
Suze Slezinger
Tucson AZ
 
Suze Slezinger   Tucson AZ
 
I love this route. I am a sport climber who has not yet felt the urge to learn trad climbing. This route has changed my mind. TR'ed it this weekend and fell deeply in love with the movement of this climb. From the delicate balance of pushing with your feet and pulling with your arms up the crack to the strong pull ups on jugs, to the throught provoking balancy crux at the end. All I can say is well done to mother nature in creating this little gem. Dec 13, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Thanks, and right back at ya (two sweet sends in three days)! May 8, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Nice work today Geir! May 8, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Craig, thanks for sharing your story and glad to hear that you recovered well!

(Caution: a few spoilers below)

This is a very good climb. The placements are tricky, but I think that the gear can be totally solid the whole way up. A #2 camalot works very well in the horizontal, particularly if you place it as far left as possible. A BD #10 stopper is terrific in a constriction at the bottom of the handcrack/big jug. For the crack below the bolt, I placed a purple alien (equal in size to a #1 camalot, but with a narrower profile). A smaller cam could be used lower in the same crack for additional protection if you feel that this is necessary. All of the placements could be made from good stances to allow for positioning the gear well.

Also, if you step right after placing the final cam, there's a good rest that you can use before gunning to the bolt and finishing the last part of the climb.

Have fun! May 7, 2009
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.11
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.11
The rock is slick enough that cams, especially in the flared portions of the crack, could skate out. A 3 inch piece will fit in the big horizontal if you wiggle it around, and sparky is right...there is a crucial monster sized nut placement that will keep you off the deck (hopefully) behind the last huge jug/hand jam...it wiggles around but you can slot it behind a good amount of hard rock. Jan 27, 2009
Craig Randleman
Phoenix, AZ
Craig Randleman   Phoenix, AZ
I got on this one in November 2006 and took a 35ft ground fall, resulting in a broken sacrum, helicopter ride, surgery, and 3 months without walking. I thought the protection was solid on my way up but had three pieces come out on the way down - a #2 BD in the big horizontal, #1 BD in the hand crack, and a small blue metolius in the small roof crack below the bolt. Essentially, I failed to notice that the bomber hold right of the crack and bolt was what I should have been gunning for - it would have been an easy hold from which to clip the bolt, which would have saved me from the subsequent gear peeling fall.

I went back after I healed up to TR it and fiddle with some other gear placements. I met Sparky (of "Squeezing the Lemmon" guidebook fame) while there and he said that nuts were better but, to be honest, I couldn't get any of it to stick - and this was while I was hanging during the TR lower.

I also noticed on this TR ascent that the crack was slicker than I remembered during that first attempt, which may explain why my cam placements, which I tugged on after placing, came out.

Be careful, my friends. And get to that bolt clipping stance. Jan 5, 2009
Yeah, maybe it's time stop climbing and start playing croquet. That is one tricky little sequence. I looked a long time for the key to unlock it, but couldn't find it. Maybe next time. Problem solving is one of the reason why I like climbing - and guess I have a problem to work on. Also very glad that bolt is there. Mar 16, 2008
Probably more about doing Sentenced... before getting on it. It is key to get the sequence that works for you. I have had the same experience and once didn't think I would even get up it only to cruise it the next time out. It could be closer to 11+ than 11 though. Glad that bolt is there. Mar 15, 2008
Hmmm, maybe we were tired, and maybe the stars weren't aligned right, but the top of this climb past the bolt seemed incredibly hard. My partner who just had just led sentenced to hang, couldn't do it. I couldn't do it either. Felt more like 5.12+. We are hoping it is because a hold blew off, but more likely that we just aren't very good climbers ;) Mar 15, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.11
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.11
great route, gear beta below...i took a red tcu about 8 ft up, a purple three inch metolius cam in the horizontal to the right, the fattest nut i could find for the crack just below the jug/hand jam rest, a black power cam in the last bit of flared crack although if you have an offset friend or alien it might be better(otherwise dont think, just go) and a quick draw for the bolt. dont bother bringing anything for higher up, it gets a lot easier, its all air and the bolt is solid (trust me). One of the anchors was wiggly so there's now a new fixe rap ring to the left, clipping it's 3/8 bolt and the bottom of the chains with long runners is definitely good for your line if your top roping. super fun. Oct 25, 2007
I found the protection on this route to be quite different than what this description implies. There is only one bolt, but it is near the top of the route, and though it might be possible to hang out and fiddle in some small stuff, this isn't the greatest spot to camp out and finesse the tiny brass and cams that someone left some parts out of (my attempt at a TCU joke). More than likely you'll clip the bolt and gun it to the chains; sure it's far...they don't call it ScArizona for nothing. Here is my take:
Climb steep, smooth, discontinuous cracks and great jugs placing bomber pro of all sizes until you get to the meat of the climbing(you could fit anything from thin to 3" cams, but most will find stoppers and cams from .5-1.75" most helpful). A good rest is had before moving up and clipping the bolt, then figure out the out-of-character crux moves before gaining the anchor ledges.
Well worth lugging that heavy trad crap WAY out to the crag to get on this one. Oct 5, 2007