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Jailbreak

5.12, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 42 votes
FA: Joe Shiefman, ERuljancich, HUzzelle, JBak, May 2010 (drilled by Jbak on a wet, snowy day, Dec 2006)
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Jailhouse Rock

Description

Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE. The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be). Crimpy, espec. up high.

Location

To the right of SENTENCED TO HANG, two routes start off a ledge about 6 feet off the deck. The left-hand of the two routes is JAILBREAK.

Protection

bolts and chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo by Jim Scott.
[Hide Photo] Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo by Jim Scott.
Pumped?
[Hide Photo] Pumped?
Joe trying to break!
[Hide Photo] Joe trying to break!
Gier...
[Hide Photo] Gier...
The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, but decidedly tenuous redpoint.  What a bad ass!
[Hide Photo] The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, but decidedly tenuous redpoint. What a bad ass!
Just a little crimpy...
[Hide Photo] Just a little crimpy...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew R
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] Is this route still red-tagged? Dec 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] If Joe has finally sent this thing all the bolt hangers should be there. If not you might want to give it a serious once over before you start up, as a hanger or two might not be there. Jan 2, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Yes...still red-tagged. Jan 2, 2009
Neill Prohaska
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Not still red-tagged, is it? Feb 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] Still red-tagged. Feb 11, 2010
JoeS
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA.

This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times too nyumerous to count, well intending folks come up and ask "Hey, you get your project yet?". Even one or two folks whom I had never seen in my life have come up to me and asked if I sent my project.

I'm obsessing. It's not that large a problem in the scheme of things.

Bottom line, I haven't been on it for months again, but I'm climbing stronger than I was before and am pschyed to get it this spring, starting when the temps in town get above 80 degrees. I will even committ 3-4 days a week until it sends (if I can get someone to catch me)

I really appreciate everyone's patience and encouragement, and I will post it immediately once it gos, hopefully soon.

Joe Feb 13, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Alternate name: Statute of Limitations

Seriously though Joe, you dialed in that route at Homme Depot pretty fast. I think you're ready for Jailbreak.

My list of undone projects is now about as long as my arm. Feb 14, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Seems more like Life Without Parole! Mar 18, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] ouch Mar 18, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] May 7, 2010: Pima County Sheriff's office reports that Joseph "Lil Bull" Shiefman broke out of jail sometime in the early PM. He was aided in his escape by one Eric Ruljancich who brazenly used a rope to help Shiefman make his way up a wall, and thence to freedom. May 7, 2010
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Nice Joe! Great to hear that you triumphed. May 7, 2010
[Hide Comment] Freedom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Way to go Joe! Perseverance does indeed pay off. There was certainly one psyched Lil Bull at the chains.

@john: Very witty there wordsmith May 8, 2010
Hampton Uzzelle
Tucson, Arizona
[Hide Comment] Congratulations- That was one well deserved redpoint! I know you're psyched Joe. May 8, 2010
Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Nice job Joe!!!!! May 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] Awesome, Joe!!

You are a shining example of perserverance for all of us!!
May 8, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
[Hide Comment] CONGRATS JOE!!!!!! Ditto Jimbo's comments - your perserverence is inspiring!!! May 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] JOE!!!!! a little belated CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Sooooo happy to learn of this!!! Wish I was there to cheer for your FA! May 13, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Doing that route an such an ADVANCED age is very impressive. May 14, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Great job Joe! Way to stick with it. 3 stars from me. The thing that makes it great is that it is so sustained. Didn't find any big rests as on many of the routes on this cliff. No single super hard move but a lot of hard moves in a row and these make finishing it off difficult. One of the best routes at the crag. May 14, 2010
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.12
[Hide Comment] I like Sentenced and Armed Robbery alot, but IMO Jailbreak is the best route at the crag. May 15, 2010
[Hide Comment] Although a little crimpy in places this is one of the best lines at Jailhouse. Fun, balancy, and sequential movement with no rests the entire way. May 16, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Think you could come up with a better name. A Life Of Climb, 3 Year Stretch, Life Behind Knee Bars (not applicable but I like it), Hard Labor, Dept. of Rejections, Life Ascentence. Too much time on my hands. ME, that isn't a name. May 21, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.12
[Hide Comment] hahaha those name are funny! May 21, 2010