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Routes in North Fin

5 O'Clock Shadow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Agatha Christie (Direct) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Monsters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billionaire Boys Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bring on the Atheists S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Close Shave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Edge of Da-light, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Get Low V0- 4-
Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hai Karate T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Histoplasmosis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Killer Whale S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nancy's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Noodler S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Burn S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rocket Science S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Skin Bracer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery When Wet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tears of a Clown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Thumbs Up S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tree Monsters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown (Right of Thumbs Up) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Writer's Cramp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Page Views: 3,517 total, 25/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jun 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A truly classic line. This climb is the anti-Mt. Lemmon climb. No crimps, just big holds on a nice big overhanging face. Unfortunately this climb must not get much action as I climbed it last weekend and there were cobwebs on the holds.

Location

This is the first route located on the overhang of Nancy's thumb. Hard to miss.

Protection

7 bolts to steel lower-offs. The last bolt before the chains is under the lip. If you come off up top you will get a nice little ride.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
I have walked by this a lot of late. Pretty sweet about the new hardware. I was curious about the added bolts. Any info? You can now clip a bolt barely off the ground where it used to be gear or run it out to a very high first bolt. Nov 14, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
The hanger in question has been tightened courtesy of Andy Bennett. The route is once again in prime condition. Apr 22, 2014
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
I don't know, coming home w blue lipstick instead of red might buy me a few seconds before the rolling pins and frying pans start flying :-) Mar 31, 2014
jbak  
I think the red works fine (possibly more expensive tho), AND it tastes better ! Mar 31, 2014
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
I don't know, heard or read somewhere it was hard to get off with hand tools? Is that what you use? Mar 30, 2014
jbak  
Christian... why not use the red ? Mar 30, 2014
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12b
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
The second to last hanger fell off while I was at the anchors. I was able to locate the nut, but not washer, and hand tighten it. I'll start carrying my wrench in my pack and put together a small maintenance kit. Apologies for the amateur repair job on this one. Mar 30, 2014
Jimbo  
I fell on that bolt, many years ago, more times than I am willing to admit in public!!

Good on ya for replacing these old dogs! Feb 26, 2014
Many on the bolts on this route, including the crux bolt, were taper bolts. Here is a statement by the ASCA about these bolts in a test they did:

"We really gave Taper Bolts a chance, setting dozens of them in their optimum substrate, hard rock. We tried to set the bolts by "feel," just as you would when climbing. Half the time we got it right and the 3/8inch Taper Bolts held up to 3000 pounds in a straight pull out. But we blew it with the other half and the bolts slid out of the hole at only 700 pounds. Worse yet, we couldn't tell the good placements from the bad until we ripped them all out."

safeclimbing.org/education/…

Many old hex head bolts on Lemmon are taper bolts so be aware and don't trust your life to old hardware. Since these bolts become drastically weaker when loosened or improperly installed, It seems like mostly luck that the crux bolt on this route didnt blow during a fall. I clipped the old bolt myself and know several others who did as well. Scary. Feb 24, 2014
Replaced all bolts with stainless 2/23/2014. The old anchor remains but looked bomber for years to come. Enjoy! Feb 24, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b
Welcome to Mt. Lemmon. There is a trick for doing the crux that helps a lot. PM me if you want to know if you missed it. Jul 5, 2010
ConorD
Monf***ingtana
ConorD   Monf***ingtana
Really enjoyed this route, really fun moves and lots of great air. I thought that the upper crux was a little sandbagged at 12- though. Feels more like 12b/c to me. Definitely a lemmon classic! Jul 5, 2010
JesseJ
 
JesseJ  
 
The fellows climbing this the other day described the top bolt as "a partially pulled rusty button head". I haven't personally seen it, but it might bear consideration if anybody is in the area replacing bolts. May 3, 2010
Braxtron
...
  5.12-
Braxtron   ...
  5.12-
Would be a classic if the first 1/3 weren't 5.8. Still, it's very fun, and appropriately named due to the possibility of a clean 25' whipper... Jun 27, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b
A little spicy getting to the first bolt by todays standards. Jun 3, 2008
adamp Piatkowski
Tucson, Arizona
adamp Piatkowski   Tucson, Arizona
Kind of a Mt. Lemmon oddity- steep to overhanging crimp/jug haul. The mantel will get your heart pumping. Jun 2, 2008
Jimbo  
If you mean the sport route just around the corner, right of Air Monsters, it's 5.11+. I can't remember what we called it. Eric, Dean and I drilled it several years ago. 2 cruxs, one down low has a trick, the one up high is just plane pumpy.
Fun route you should get on it. Aug 15, 2007