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Routes in Anduriel Tower

Arizona Flyways S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birthday Girl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bubblenutz S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leapin' Lizards S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Adventure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Scott Ayers, Mike Head
Page Views: 6,103 total · 41/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Looking for mid 11 sport? This is one of the best ones to do and has been a good project for many climbers in the past. Face climb edges through several bolts to thin crack w/ small flats and up a few more bolts to a slightly more vertical section where it is possible to rest. Up and left on a couple of larger holds, decide whether to go straight up or cut left around corner and up to ledge (anchors).


Located on the south toe of the tower.


Bolts, Chains

Anchors updated by CASA in 2016.
WSnyder,do you have a bolt count for this route? Are the bolts sufficient for the climb, or are there any natural placements available along this line to supplement the fixed pro? Were you able to determine if the climb had a single crux section, or was the entire route a sustained 5.11? I've heard this line is easier for those who have a good deal of hand strength and a lot of upper body endurance -- did you likewise find it to be largely a series of pullups, or were you able to use your feet to good purpose as well?

How does this climb compare with the similarly rated Bubblenutz? Apr 7, 2006
I do not know how many bolts there are but it has enough. I cannot say you won't get hurt if you fall, you shouldn't but you could. The route is fairly long and somewhat pumpy with a crux that you will readily recognize when you get to it. Good footwork is always important regardless of the grade or steepness of the route although EMk says "Good footwork gets in the way of strength training." so it is your choice to efficiently use your feet or not. Good footwork on this route is possible and could be helpful. This route in my opinion is far better than Bubblenutz. Apr 8, 2006
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
This is a great route, a very fair and sutained 11. I feel that "Just Do It" was a little harder if not at last the same grade as "Arizona Flyways". There are many interesting moves. Watch out for the glue! Lots of good holds that sound hollow, but feel strong. This is definitely a good project route for someone trying to break into 11. I need to work on a redpoint! Jun 5, 2006
Getting to the first bolt is 5.9. If the dead manzanita you start on ever breaks it will get harder. If you are really worried stick clip the first bolt if that is what is holding you back. A high starting bolt (that can be stick clipped) is not a good reason to avoid getting on things. Apr 9, 2008
Mark and Stacy Egan  
The dead manzanita tree was still able support my weight today and there are huge holds between the tree and the bolt(5.8?). A stick clip does not seem necessary at all. Great climb! Nov 8, 2008
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
i notice some glue up there, has there been chipping too? Dec 15, 2008
One good argument for the stick clip is to prevent impalement on the punji stick that so often occurs when manzanita breaks.

If you want to stick clip, do it. If you want to put in extra gear, do it. If you want to run it, bypass bolts, 3rd class, etc... do it.

Safety is a state of mind and one should never let peer pressure decide how you will lead a climb. The safer you climb, the longer you'll climb. Dec 17, 2008
No chipping on this route. This route was lead ground hanging on hooks to drill. A lot of the holds were pancake stacks that eventually peeled off. Very exciting to hook on. Went back later and tried to reinforce them. A number are gone but the climb still goes at about the same grade. Jan 8, 2009
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for the info, Eric, sounds like a spicey put-up! I really enjoy this climb, I imagine it will get a bit harder to do straight on once that roasted manzanita at the bottom finally cracks off... Feb 13, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
great climb! Mar 28, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
the manzanita bush at the start is gone. i think the move to the first bolt is like 10a/b.

fun route. great flow. no approach. good belay area. great view from the top. positive (albeit sharp) holds.

we need more routes like these on mt. lemmon! they're a dime a dozen, no? :) Jan 4, 2010
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
Was here today and if my memory serves me correctly, two bolts were added to the start (I'm remembering the now-third as the first when I did it; I could be completely wrong though). Not advocating chopping or any such nonsense, the start moves are harder now with the manzanita gone and you no longer need to worry about breaking an ankle getting to the first bolt. Just figured a note was in order to perhaps encourage those previously scared of the first section to get out there and give this classic route a go! Jan 27, 2013
We added the new bolts when the manzanita came down as well doing the new start sequence. Good idea to mention it. Jan 30, 2013
I was on this route two days ago and somehow pulled the first bolt off when being lowered. I still have the hangar, but lost the bolt. A fair amount of the hangars are pretty loose. Just a heads up. Will replace the hangar and bolt asap. Feb 22, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Please clarify. The bolt came out of the rock??, or did the nut come loose an then fall off with the hanger??

Big difference. Feb 22, 2014
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Try to put some blue Loctite on the threads when you put the hanger back on. Feb 22, 2014
The "loose hangers" might be "loose" because the bolts used to put them in might have been Rawl 5 Piece bolts. You can tell if that is what they are because there will not be a threaded stud with a nut on it. What you will see is a hex head bolt holding the hanger on. These are fine unless you can actually turn the bolt itself. Feb 23, 2014
A little silicone caulk from any harware store works well too. Feb 23, 2014
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
As people lower off an overhanging route like this, the quickdraw pulls on the hanger, that's what might have loosened the nut on the new bolt at the start. Lead falls too, I tried some weird beta at the start after many years away from this route and fell on the first bolt!

The spinning SMC hangers on the hexheads further up are probably the same setup EFR talks about removing and replacing in the link below. Those bolts/hangers at Prison Camp took a lot more abuse, longer falls w less rope out, and in a wetter place, and he seems to feel pretty good about them.…

If you could get those hexheads to move in order to tighten them and stop the hanger from spinning, there's probably more danger of overtorquing them (12 ft/lbs?)and weakening the bolt than from the spinning hanger?

Anway, someone w more experience should chime in.

Dec 21, 2015
Those bolts were Rawl 5 Piece bolts and the CASA A-Team has replaced them!. Dec 22, 2015

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