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Routes in Orifice Wall

Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Coup de' tat S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heel-A Monster S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Silence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Orifice Politics S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Taking a Kneebar S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Ted Waldor 1996
Page Views: 15,411 total, 107/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Follow the general directions given to get to The Fortress but don't go down the gully. Just as the trail starts down the east side of The Fortress follow the ledge around the left side and you will find a safety cable. This cable will lead to another cable that will guide you safely down to the climbs.

The Orifice is in the running for one of the mountains best sport climbs. This route has a huge exposure factor (laugh at your friends when they get needlessly scared), some great jug hauling and enough technical climbing to keep it interesting. A hard start leads to a large orifice which serves as a rest before the real climbing begins. Sign the guestbook while you rest in the hole. Figure out how to get out of the hole and then do the technical crux. Now jug haul for a ways and get ready for some final action before it mellows out for the finish. Follow the bolt line to the right near the top for the original (easier) finish or cut left (harder) for another letter grade worth of fun.

Protection

Bolts, Chain anchors
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Hard Day Direct (the left line of bolts at the finish) doesn't get a lot of traffic but is actually really good. Seems much harder than the OG finish in the chimney. Bring two draws and get on it! Aug 25, 2014
Tanner Mack  
 
Such an amazing climb! So glad to check this off the list. Super good climbing,awesome crux, amazing climb love it! Aug 4, 2014
John sent Hard Day after a few sessions of work for his hardest redpoint to date. Cruised it. Congrats John!
It sounds like he wants to do it on gear now... Sep 19, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
It would be bold for sure. I am not sure the flakes would be strong enough for those cams to catch a fall. Sep 16, 2011
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
I've been mulling over whether this route can be led on gear. I believe it might be possible.

Sling tooth (~2nd Bolt)
Cam in pocket (~4th Bolt)
Cam in flake (~6th Bolt)
Cam in flake undercling and/or nut in eye pocket (~8th bolt)
Cam and/or nut in deep crack (~9th bolt)
Nut from redpoint crux (~10th bolt)

The start is the most questionable part. The tooth might not be deep enough and a fall before the second piece might result in a ground fall. Still I think it might be possible.

Thoughts? Sep 15, 2011
RyanJames
  5.12b/c
RyanJames  
  5.12b/c
I didn't think rock climbing could be any better than this... until I got on Orifice Politics to the right. Feb 24, 2010
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
Thanks Geir and Eric! Eric, I ended up sending it that last day I saw you up there. I told you all when you left that you were going to miss my send! lol Everyone had a great season at the Orifice wall this year! I look forward to it again next summer! For now it is Homestead season! See you all out there. Oct 23, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
HUGE congrats to Jon Ruland for his recent send on this classic climb!!!!! Jon gets the award for developing such strength so quickly this summer. Way to go Jon!!!! Oct 20, 2009
Way to go Red! It looked like you were close last time I saw you up there. Oct 4, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
nice job red!!!!!!!!! Sep 30, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
SEND! WOOOOO!! Sep 27, 2009
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
I finally got it on Saturday! 09-19-09 Amazing line! Sep 21, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
  5.12
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
  5.12
Why can't I give this one six stars? Such an incredible climb! Jul 16, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
thanks red and jerry! it was awesome! Sep 17, 2008
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12b
Nice send Geir! I was on the south wall of the Fortres when you had your victory YELL! It could be heard for a mile I'm sure. You met me up there that day. (Luke) Good Job! Sep 11, 2008
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
Hundal, you're getting too big fer yer britches... Sep 9, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks, Eric and Ted, for this incredibly burly, fun, unique route. Thanks, too, to Vince, Josie, Pete, and Marie for yelling me through the final crux! Great fun! Sep 8, 2008
Let me apologize first to all of you that I have given beta to. It was not the best way to do it. The route is now only 11d, just kidding! Anyway, I used to do a kneebar to get out of the Orifice but today I watched a guy who is only 5.8 pull it off without coming out of the top of the hole. He made it look easy so I tried his beta. No need to be a contortionist any more. Really cool actually. Jul 7, 2008
WSnyder
 
WSnyder  
 
For a thrill and a reward after you redpoint take the big swing. After cleaning the route, climb up on TR to the second bolt or higher and take the swing out over the canyon below. Mandatory at least once. Make sure your belayer doesn't lower you too soon so you don't hit the ledge when swinging back in. Mar 10, 2006