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The Fortress Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 8,500 ft |
| GPS: | 32.432, -110.799 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 57,304 total · 302/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on Sep 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Access Issue: Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30
Details
This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for peregrine falcon nesting.
Description
The Fortress is one of the best and most varied crags on Mount Lemmon. The Southeast Face boasts amazing sport and traditional multi-pitch routes. The Orifice Wall, which is a sharp contrast to the face routes, boasts some of the hardest and steepest routes in the region. The Fortress along with the other summit crags should not be missed.
Be sure to observe the season closure from March 15 to June 30 peregrine falcon nesting.
Be sure to observe the season closure from March 15 to June 30 peregrine falcon nesting.
Getting There
Drive up Mount Lemmon Highway (Catalina Highway) for approximately 22.5 miles. Turn right on Ski Run Road, immediately prior to entering the town of Summerhaven, and follow this road approximately 4.5 miles. While on Ski Run Road continue through the Ski Valley parking lot where the road narrows and winds up the last section of the mountain. Upon reaching the closed gate of the Mount Lemmon SkyCenter Observatory turn left into a parking lot. A restroom and free camping can be found here. There is no running water.
Hike around fenced-in generators on a narrow trail used by climbers and hikers alike (Photo 1 below). In a couple minutes, at the SkyCenter Observatory sign a fork will be encountered (Photo 2 below). The Fortress can be reached by following either the access road (left) or Meadow Trail (right). The latter is more scenic and less rocky but slightly longer.
If you take the access road, follow the rocky road downhill past both a trail turnoff and a lookout point. The view will open and a metal shed will appear. Near the shed is a spring on the left (downhill) side of the trail. I believe the spring is safe to drink and always running. Continue past the shed and the turn off for Rappel Rock. Hike past the where the Meadow Trail rejoins the access road.
Turn left onto a climber's trail immediately after the green electrical box on your right (Photo 3 below). Hike past the west face of The Murray Wall to the Fortress. The Southeast Face is on your left; the Northwest Face is on your right.
Expect the drive to take 45-60 minutes and the hike to take 20-30 minutes.
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Fortress Approach Photo 1: Trailhead
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Fortress Approach Photo 2: Fork. The access road is on the left; the Meadow Trail is on the right.
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Fortress Approach Photo 3: Turnoff. The turnoff is just past the electrical box on the left side.
Hike around fenced-in generators on a narrow trail used by climbers and hikers alike (Photo 1 below). In a couple minutes, at the SkyCenter Observatory sign a fork will be encountered (Photo 2 below). The Fortress can be reached by following either the access road (left) or Meadow Trail (right). The latter is more scenic and less rocky but slightly longer.
If you take the access road, follow the rocky road downhill past both a trail turnoff and a lookout point. The view will open and a metal shed will appear. Near the shed is a spring on the left (downhill) side of the trail. I believe the spring is safe to drink and always running. Continue past the shed and the turn off for Rappel Rock. Hike past the where the Meadow Trail rejoins the access road.
Turn left onto a climber's trail immediately after the green electrical box on your right (Photo 3 below). Hike past the west face of The Murray Wall to the Fortress. The Southeast Face is on your left; the Northwest Face is on your right.
Expect the drive to take 45-60 minutes and the hike to take 20-30 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Fortress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
25 Comments
More About The Fortress
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Guidebooks (8)
Casa do Cacete
After topping out, head north into flat and vegetated area. Locate gully between the West Pillar where most of the routes top out and the East Pillar. From the top of the West Pillar, the climbing up onto the East Pillar (where you can walk down from) looks substantially harder than it actually is when you're looking up at it from within the gully.
To get into the gully, downclimb into it by going back south, then east, then north again into the cleft. Head north into the gully about 2/3 of the way until you see a riblike formation of rock on your left. Across from the rib you can see the obvious weakness heading up the East Pillar. There's an initial dynamic move, maybe about 5.8, to get established on the slab, then about 20 feet of easy 5th classing to get out (5.2-5.3?)..
After getting your bearings the first time, you can pretty much head diagonally straight from the top-outs to the downclimb into the gully.
PS there's another option about 15 feet further climber's left, which involves a small traverse left then super juggy holds up and out... (avoids the 5.8 move onto the face climber's right on the first option)..haven't done it but I guess most people think it's easier.. Jul 18, 2007
...
Tucson, AZ
Thanks. Jun 25, 2009
San Antonio, TX
(First three start along the cable route)
The Brightest Fire 11c
Huck Fin 12
Disfigured Foreigner 12-
(Next three routes are after the cable)
Oedipus Complex 12-
Old red tagged project?
Gettin Off The Porch 12-
(The remaining routes all start down the stepped slab, on the lower tier)
Coup de'tat 13-/Orifice Politics 12c
Project?
Hard Day At The Orifice 12b
Eureka 13- Jul 14, 2010
Tucson, AZ
Descending the west side of the Fortress one encounters two bolted lines. The rightmost of the routes consists of three pitches:
1) The first pitch ascends bright white rock for 80ft until a ledge with anchors is reached. The climbing is ~5.9.
2) The second pitch climbs bulgy, black and green rock. This rock is reminiscent of the rock on the Orifice Wall. The anchors for this pitch are immediately below a ledge. Scars in the rock show that they had been moved a foot or two lower at some point. I am tempted to say the route ended here at one time. The climbing is ~5.10 and 80ft or so.
3) The third pitch crosses two ledges and is significantly easier than the first two pitches. The rock is standard Fortress rock with plenty of good holds. The climbing is ~5.8 and 100ft or so. Sep 4, 2010
Sierra Vista, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Tucson, AZ
Tacoma, Toyota
I'd say James would be your best bet since he created this page. Jul 10, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
Flagstaff, AZ
WHAT WOULD DON BULAND SAY ABOUT THIS JON? Haha!
If only someone would do a guidebook. Oh wait someone is working on one.
Okay now go back to the first paragraph. Jul 10, 2012
Williston, ND
Flagstaff, AZ
Tucson, AZ
San Antonio, TX
Phoenix, AZ
Putting "dead tree" on a topo is f'ing useless if I can see 15 dead trees from any given place at the base of a wall. Sep 16, 2012
Tucson, AZ
The guidebook was printed in 1997. In 2003 there was a huge fire that killed a bunch of trees. I think this area was part of what was burned, hence the multitude of dead trees.
I agree it would be nice if this area were subdivided and reorganized, though. Edit: reorganized on MP, that is. Sep 17, 2012
It does seem the ability to read a guide book has diminished in the last ten years. Not sure why that is. Maybe too much info being spoon fed to the masses has decreased the ability and desire to figure stuff out your self. Sep 18, 2012
tucson,az
San Jose, CA
Tucson, AZ