Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Aleix Serrat-Capdevila, D. Merin, G. Hundal, EFR
Page Views: 1,202 total · 13/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

The name means fear of deviation from the official doctrine. (sport being the doctrine at this wall) The first trad route at the Orifice Wall. Left leaning and overhanging chimney/offwidth to steep jug hauling. Looks like a nightmare but footholds on the face make it fun and worth doing if you like the wide stuff. It is a little runnout to the first cam but easy. At the top you move left and finish by clipping the last bolt of Flyer Starter.

Location

Starts in the black stained chimney that is also the start of Eureka.

Protection

Two bolts and Camalots 1-#3 2-#4s 2-#5s 1 or 2-#6s. We used one six above the first bolt to move higher and place a 4 and a 5 then pulled the 6 in order to use it higher thus avoiding carrying two #6s

Photos

This is a fun route and the first mixed line at the Orifice wall. Nice work Aleix on the first ascent! Aug 1, 2011
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
nice, this might get me to actually come back to the orifice wall. Feb 9, 2015