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Routes in Orifice Wall

Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Coup de' tat S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heel-A Monster S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Silence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Orifice Politics S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Taking a Kneebar S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: EFR, Eddie Mofardin, and a lot of other folks '01
Page Views: 4,704 total, 41/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Big holds an a 45 degree wall until you reach the bouldery crux.

Location

First route left of Hard Day... Starts in the water stain then works up and right. If it is wet at the 2nd bolt pull through to the dry holds.

Protection

Bolts
I just saw this thread about the carabiner falling off. I'm glad no one was hurt. The only way I can think of that this may have happened is that the rope was not fully clipped into the carabiner, but instead of caught between the gate and the nose. The rope would have held the gate open in this orientation. Since the carabiner was free to rotate it may have inverted and fully opened during a fall allowing it to slide off of the chain.

I believe that all of the steel carabiners on this route are wire gates and would not be susceptible to gate flutter.

These carabiners are quite a lot stiffer that aluminum ones. Please be careful while clipping them to ensure that the rope is fully in the inside to prevent the possibility of the above happening. Aug 20, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Right around the bolt that usually gets skipped on redpoint attempts there's a sharp flake system.

If you skip that bolt and feel like there's any chance you're gonna fall before clipping the next bolt (the one right before the crux), make sure to look down and check that the rope is not running behind that flake. I'm no expert, but to me the thing definitely looks sharp enough to cut a rope.

Last week, a friend borrowed my rope, and apparently left the rope dangling behind that flake while being lowered from the anchors. It got stuck there while I was just pulling the rope down, so the same could happen in a lead fall (the effective rope length would be shortened to the distance between your knot and the flake, creating a high fall factor onto a sharp edge). Aug 9, 2016
AlexToth  
 
The carabiner is back on the chain with tape keeping it from spinning Jul 12, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13a
I've logged a lot of time in the last few years at Rifle and Maple which have cable draws galore. IMO, they are the way to go. There are so many crags across the US that get more traffic than the Orifice that have cable draws everywhere and I have never heard of one having major issues. Climb-tech, FIXE, and several other companies make them in multiple stock lengths and custom lengths if so desired.

Also....... Christian, the Petzl steel biners are great.

I'd also be totally willing to donate some cable draws on anything that is high traffic and currently has chains. Jul 11, 2016
jbak  
Really ?? I'd like to see what you are referring to. I've got about a dozen cable-draws hanging at various crags. It seems to me the swaging on a cable-draw would be just like the swaging on a stopper... pretty bomb-proof. Maybe it could be abraided by the wind whipping it against the rock...anyway, I'd like to know. Jul 11, 2016
Please don't use any cable draws up there. I have read that they wear out as the cable takes whipper after whipper after whipper which these draws get. Just get up there and tape the biner back on so it doesn't do that again. There is a whole discussion about how the pins were fucked up when these draws were added. I really suggest you tape that biner back on. Jul 11, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Thanks John, not sure about the last link in the chain. I saw the fall (Alex fell about 20 feet then another 20 when the biner came off) but was on the upper tier and way too tired to go check it out.

I believe you about the pre-assembled pins but once they were taken off to thread the chain, they didn't stay on very well when reinserted. (not sure if the bad ones were taken off with the wrong tool in some cases, had the threading stripped, wrong side inserted into the threaded hole, etc - but a lot of them are still doing fine)

I mostly belayed that day, so obviously not my fault ;-)
Jul 11, 2016
jbak  
Is it possible the chain broke ? I was on the route on saturday and noticed that some of the draws have sorta thin-ish chain.

I just ordered some cable-draws, maybe I'll contribute a couple. Christian, I've never seen the pins fall out of a complete, pre-assembled cable-draw. Jul 11, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
This is the type of 'biner we placed up there during "Love Your Orifice" day in 2011:

climbtechgear.com/steel-car…

Don't know if the Petzl Djinn STEEL would work as well?

Anyway, a normal aluminum biner or quickdraw would work temporarily but should be replaced w steel eventually.

Not a clue how that thing came off the chain? Inversion plus gate flutter? A lot of them lost their anti-inversion pins fairly quickly, if you see one without a pin try to at least tape it down so it doesn't invert.

youtube.com/watch?v=a3XhgVB… Jul 11, 2016
AlexToth  
 
Hey heads up I took a fall toward the end of the crux of Eureka and some how the carabiner came off the chain part of the draw. Kind of a bit spooky. I haven't gone back up to check it out but I left the carabiner at the base. The bolt looks good and the chain is still hanging. Anyone heading up might want to bring a replacement not sure when I'll be back up there Jul 11, 2016
RyanJames  
 
5.12a to a solid V5 crux. Jul 26, 2012
JesseJ
 
JesseJ  
 
that crux man, that thing is beast. Sep 4, 2011
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Eureka now has new hangers, chains and biners at the anchors. Sep 12, 2010
I think Snyderman did as there is a bright shiny new one there. Vince just did the second ascent. Jul 11, 2008
jbak  
So Eric, did you add a bolt at the start yet ? Great route ! Jul 11, 2008