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5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Ted Waldor |
Page Views: | 1,255 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Austin Sobotka on Jul 27, 2017 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This is a linkup of Eureka and Hard day, and by far the easiest route on the steep portion of the Orifice.
Climb Eureka up to just past the seventh bolt. From here (at the end of the left facing lie-back flake) you could clip the eighth bolt on Eureka. Don't. Instead, reach directly right to a jug, execute some fun, gymnastic moves, trending slightly down and to the right, until you reach the bolt that is level with you on Hard Day. Don't clip this bolt (rope drag). Clip the next bolt then finish in the chimney of Hard Day.
It might make sense to eventually get some new bolts in place to make this transition a bit cleaner. As it is there's a bit of a runout to the first bolt that should be clipped on Hard Day. That being said, I tested the fall and it's perfectly safe.
Climb Eureka up to just past the seventh bolt. From here (at the end of the left facing lie-back flake) you could clip the eighth bolt on Eureka. Don't. Instead, reach directly right to a jug, execute some fun, gymnastic moves, trending slightly down and to the right, until you reach the bolt that is level with you on Hard Day. Don't clip this bolt (rope drag). Clip the next bolt then finish in the chimney of Hard Day.
It might make sense to eventually get some new bolts in place to make this transition a bit cleaner. As it is there's a bit of a runout to the first bolt that should be clipped on Hard Day. That being said, I tested the fall and it's perfectly safe.
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