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Routes in Orifice Wall

Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Coup de' tat S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heel-A Monster S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Silence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Orifice Politics S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Taking a Kneebar S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Waldor
Page Views: 205 total, 44/month
Shared By: Austin Sobotka on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

This is a linkup of Eureka and Hard day, and by far the easiest route on the steep portion of the Orifice.

Climb Eureka up to just past the seventh bolt. From here (at the end of the left facing lie-back flake) you could clip the eighth bolt on Eureka. Don't. Instead, reach directly right to a jug, execute some fun, gymnastic moves, trending slightly down and to the right, until you reach the bolt that is level with you on Hard Day. Don't clip this bolt (rope drag). Clip the next bolt then finish in the chimney of Hard Day.

It might make sense to eventually get some new bolts in place to make this transition a bit cleaner. As it is there's a bit of a runout to the first bolt that should be clipped on Hard Day. That being said, I tested the fall and it's perfectly safe.

Protection

b/c

Photos

Ted Waldor. Jul 29, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Cool, do you know the name/who first did it? Jul 28, 2017
This variation has already been done Austin, years ago. Jul 28, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
That's my vote, some more input would be great though! Jul 27, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
5.11 eh? Jul 27, 2017