Panther Gorge Rock Climbing

Copyright Kevin B. MacKenzie and Adirondack Rock

North End Access

From the Garden Trailhead in Keene Valley: Follow the Phelps Trail past Johns Brook Lodge and Slant Rock. Slant Rock Lean-to and the nearby campsites are the most convenient bivy sites from which to attack the gorge from the north. Continue to follow the Phelps Trail to the State Range Trail junction (7.8 miles). Begin bushwhacking a few hundred feet beyond the junction at the top of the pass where the Phelps Trail veers right.

To Marcy's Cliffs

Descend south from the Marcy/Haystack col and stay to the right and above the drainage to avoid extensive talus and ledges. You’ll reach the Panther Den, the first wall on Marcy, after about 20 minutes of hard bushwhacking (.2 miles). A 300 foot long glade along the cliff’s base leads to a faint herdpath on the left. The path stays moderately close to the cliffs for about 250 feet until reaching the Feline Wall which is characterized by steep slab with a deep gully to its right. The now intermittent path curves to west over the next 300 feet to the Agharta Wall marked by an obvious cliff below a vast slab. From Agharta continue downhill about 125 feet then make a hard right around a buttress. Bushwhack 200 feet up a drainage stream to the Huge Scoop—the last of Marcy’s north-end climbing walls.

Chimney Wall (named in 2017): Continue on contour about 700 south to a glade below the Overhang Slide, a slide with 2 distinct roof systems. Look for the huge chimney on a cliff uphill. Bushwhack up to a gully and follow to wall.

To Haystack's Cliffs

Descend south from the Marcy/Haystack col and stay to the LEFT and above the drainage for everything down to the Ramp Wall. Locate the V Wall by following the "Marcy's Cliffs" herdpath to the Agharta Wall and bushwhacking to a large boulder at (N 44 6.7511’ W 73 54.4918’). Follow the V Wall drainage stream to its base. Expect to spend 60-90 minutes navigating through moss-covered talus, blowdown and dense tree growth.

South End Access

*From Adirondack Loj: Park at the Loj (parking fee applies) and hike 8 miles to 4-corners between Mt. Skylight and Mt. Marcy. Descend 1.2 miles into Panther Gorge.
*From Elk Lake: Park at the public parking lot near the end of Elk Lake Road in North Hudson. Follow the Elk Lake to Marcy Trail 9 miles to the south end of Panther Gorge.

Several campsites and Panther Gorge Lean-to make excellent sites to overnight--probably my favorite area to camp in the High Peaks.

Restrictions of Note:

*Bear Canisters: Required from April 1-November 30.
*Lean-to Rules: Lean-tos mentioned are built to accommodate 8 people. You are OBLIGED to share them if another group comes along.
*Fire: No campfires allowed in the Eastern High Peaks.
*Check current camping regulations for any restrictions.