Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Steven St. Pierre 2017 Sept. 16
Page Views: 91 total · 6/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 20, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Incorporates, face climbing, crack climbing and a free standing spire on the southeastern arête of Mt. Marcy's Chimney Wall.

P1 5.6 PG (5.1 R): Climb into the off width and run it out (or bring a #6) to a chossy face with good gear. Climb to vegetated ledges and step right through a thin band of cedars to the large gully below an obvious roof. 100’

P2 5.8 PG: Climb the right facing corner with a 3” crack to its top. Step left and follow cracks up a ramp to a large flake below a seam and belay. 50’

P3 5.9 R: Face climb right with sketchy gear (runout for 15’) to a right rising handcrack that leads to steep featured ramp. Face climb up divoted slab to a 10’ tall free standing pinnacle. Climb pinnacle and step from its top to a ledge on the east side of the Chimney Wall arête. Climb ledges to the top. Belay from a 3” crack in a small cliff. 100’

Location

Start: Climb partway up a grassy fourth class gully on the southern side of the Chimney Wall. Look on the right for a couple cedar trees guarding an off width crack.

Exit: Walk left around cliff and 30’ up to a stout spruce. Rappel off south face down to the grassy gully.

Protection

Standard rack. Doubles of smaller cams helpful.

Photos

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