Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Brent Elliott, Laura Duncan, 2019 Dec 28
Page Views: 646 total · 39/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Dec 29, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the pillar and continue up the corner to a slightly overhanging crux. There’s a #3 cam placement behind the upper icicle if it’s bony. We found it to be only slightly frosted during the FA. Continue up to a narrow 10’ tall cave with good rock gear if you want to see the follower. Otherwise climb it in one pitch;  a couple big moves place you on grade 2+ ice.

The route forms in a variety of ways, many times with a 15’ pillar at the base. There’s a deep off-width in the back of the corner. The ice forms over top of this, so it’s hollow behind. We found the gear to be tricky until the crux since we only had brittle ice blobs to work with between the pillar and crux.

Brent saw my comparison photos taken over the last half decade and noted, "We climbed this in feisty conditions." That said, it may form as a 4+ if the crack is sealed by a decent curtain.

Location

In the huge right facing corner at the top of the Panther Den ramp.

Descent: Rappel from trees at the top.

Protection

Finger sized cams-#3, screws, maybe a spectre or pin.

Photos