Type: Trad, Ice, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches
FA: Dec 12, 2020 with Emily Schwartz, Loren Swears
Page Views: 227 total · 20/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Dec 15, 2020
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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This unique route incorporates a pillar (or pillars if they haven't joined) start into a fracture cave/squeeze chimney as the crux. 

Video during the FA: youtu.be/WSkJh840IIk

Pitch 1 (WI2) 120’: Follow easy ice/snow to an obvious fracture cave at the top right-hand side.

Pitch 2 (WI4) 60’: Climb pillars into the cave and belay after exiting. Depending on ice conditions is may be fine to combine pitches 2 and 3.

Pitch 3 (WI3+) 50’: Climb smear and top out in cedars using one of several stout trees to belay.


The documented ice lines as of December 2020 on Mt. Haystack are located into four areas: the North End, the Ramp Wall, No Man’s Land (dominated by a large slab), and the V-Wall. Click here for overview. This is the first known route in No Man’s Land between the Ramp Wall and the V-Wall. The left-hand gully forms pitch one.

Bushwhack from Marcy’s Feline Wall toward large blank slab of in the No Man’s Land area of Haystack. Find the gully near the left side of the wall (not directly below leading to the lower slab).


Can probably get away with just screws if this is fat.