Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: "Emily Schwartz, Harold Sutton,Katie Vannicola, Feb 22, 2020
Page Views: 376 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Feb 25, 2020
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is the ice drip that follows the left-hand corner of Marcy's Great Chimney. The approach is the same. It was fat during the FA in 2020. It seems to be chronically thin and brittle though 2019 also saw fat conditions in March when I walked by.

This is a pumpy, stellar line up four sections of slight overhangs with variable ice conditions. The left wall is generally laminated as well so one can gain some meager footing there as needed after the first 30'. The crux during the FA was about 40' before the obvious blockage of trap rock halfway up. The final critical point is up a slightly overhung curtain 2/3 of the way up.
A short low-angle gully leads to grade 4 ice for the topout under the giant chockstone.

Location

This is the primary feature of the Chimney Wall roughly .5 miles into the Gorge from the N end.

Protection

Gear during the FA was 11 screws (stubbies to a 22 cm at the top) and 7 pieces of rock pro (#3 stopper to #3 camalot). Spectres might be handy with thinner ice as well.

Photos