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Routes in Panther Gorge

Agharta T WI4-
ByTooth and Claw T WI4 PG13
Chimaera T WI3- R
Fly By T WI3 PG13
Just Nickel and Iron T WI4-
Needle in a Haystack T WI3
Orson's Tower T WI3+ PG13
Pi Day WI3+ PG13
Ride the Lightning T WI5- PG13
Skip the Lightning T WI3+ PG13
Sorry, Kevin T WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Christian Fracchia, Charlie Dickens - 1999
Page Views: 426 total, 20/month
Shared By: Matt D on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Agharta is the first ice route in Panther Gorge.

There are two lines on the Agharta wall: Agharta, which climbs the ice to the right of the rock buttress that splits the face, and Just Nickel and Island that climbs the ice to the left of the buttress and merges with the traditional Agharta line for the top two pitches.


P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice. This section can be bypassed on the right if the ice is too thin or non-existent.

P2 55m NEI 3 Climb the ice to the right of the rock buttress to reach mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on rock gear.

P3 55m NEI 3/4 Climb easy slopes for 20m, then break through a vertical step amongst cool looking caves.

P4 35m NEI 3- climb rambling steps to the trees above.

Descent: rappel off scrubs, V-threads and/or rock outcroppings. Alternatively, some parties bushwack upwards to the Marcy trail (having seen this terrain, I can't understand why anyone would do this... ).

Location

Hike to the Marcy/Haystack col from the Garden parking lot, passing John's Brook Lodge and Slant Rock (4 hours).
After bushwacking 20 minutes into Panther Gorge from the Haystack/Marcy col and reaching Panther den, follow the rock faces south past the Feline wall to the big obvious face of Agharta.

From the base of the climb, only the first 3 pitches are visible.

Base of Route: GPS: 44.113066 north, -73.908183 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587369 4885010

Protection

When the ice is good (as it was in 2016), a standard rack of ice screws is sufficient. Other years people report thin/scary ice, necessitating stubbies and rock gear.

Cord for V-threads.

Photos

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