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Routes in Panther Gorge

Agharta T WI4-
ByTooth and Claw T WI4 PG13
Chimaera T WI3- R
Fly By T WI3 PG13
Just Nickel and Iron T WI4-
Needle in a Haystack T WI3
Orson's Tower T WI3+ PG13
Pi Day WI3+ PG13
Ride the Lightning T WI5- PG13
Skip the Lightning T WI3+ PG13
Sorry, Kevin T WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: ACB Charlie Beard, Jesse Colangelo-Lillis, Matt Dobbs Feb 27, 2016
Page Views: 27 total, 22/month
Shared By: Matt D on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This route is on the Agharta face and starts from the same area as the Agharta route. It shares P3 & P4 with the Agharta route.

It follows the ice on the LHS of the rock butters that divides the ice on the Agharta face.


P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice on the LHS of the rock buttress.

P2 55m NEI 3 Climb rambling steps of ice to mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on rock gear.

P3 55m NEI 3/4 Climb easy slopes for 20m, then break through a vertical step amongst cool looking caves. (Same as Aghast)

P4 35m NEI 3- climb rambling steps to the trees above. (Same as Agharta)

Descent: rappel off scrubs, V-threads and/or rock outcroppings. Alternatively, parties could opt to bushwack upwards to the Marcy trail.

Name: Agharta is named for the city rumored to reside at the core of the earth - but we found Just Nickel and Iron on our excursion to the Aghata wall.

Location

(Same approach and start location as for Agharta)

Hike to the Marcy/Haystack col from the Garden parking lot, passing John's Brook Lodge and Slant Rock (4 hours).
After bushwacking 20 minutes into Panther Gorge from the Haystack/Marcy col and reaching Panther den, follow the rock faces south past the Feline wall to the big obvious face of Agharta.

From the base of the climb, only the first 3 pitches are visible.

Base of Route: GPS: 44.113066 north, -73.908183 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587369 4885010

Protection

A standard rack of ice screws and cord for V-thread descent.
If the ice is thin/delaminated, as it can be when the top pitches are sun-affected, stubbies and rock gear could be helpful.

Photos

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