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Routes in Panther Gorge

Agharta T WI4-
ByTooth and Claw T WI4 PG13
Chimaera T WI3- R
Fly By T WI3 PG13
Just Nickel and Iron T WI4-
Needle in a Haystack T WI3
Orson's Tower T WI3+ PG13
Pi Day WI3+ PG13
Ride the Lightning T WI5- PG13
Skip the Lightning T WI3+ PG13
Sorry, Kevin T WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Beard, Jesse Colangelo-Lillis, Matt Dobbs - Feb 28, 2016
Page Views: 269 total, 12/month
Shared By: Matt D on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

P1 15 m. NEI 1-2: Ramble up a very short step up to a snow ramp that leads to a belay where rock shelters from ice funnelled down the gully. [Suggest NOT to belay below the snow step, which is exposed to ice fall.]

P2 45m, NEI 3: Climb the gully. Staying in the gully proper provides the easiest path, with a couple short sections of NEI3. Going right from the belay or taking to ice on the gully walls provide spicier options. Belay at a sheltered stance to the right on rock. (there is a small evergreen tree slung for rappel just below this)

P3 30m, NEI 4 Move back into the gully and climb a 10m snow ramp to the hanging columns that mark the main fun for this climb. 20m of narrow, featured climbing up the gully on columns that are steep, but offer plenty of rest points.

Descent: Rappel from a V-thread or shrubs above P2 that will take you to the slung evergreen at the top of P1.

Location

Route is located in the gully just right of the Feline wall in Panther gorge,

Base of Route: GPS: 44.113707 north, -73.907068 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587457 4885082

Refer to Kevin Mudrat Mackenzie’s excellent Panther Gorge overview materials at (
www.mackenziefamily.com/46/panthergorge/panther-gorge-interactive-aerial.html ) and the Panther Gorge area rock description ( mountainproject.com/v/panth… ) to locate the Feline wall/slab and this gully.

Protection

Note: This climb follows a gully that funnels falling ice. Choosing safe belays on this route is dictated by finding sheltered stances from ice coming down from above.

Standard rack of ice screws + minimal rock gear (some medium nuts).

Cord for V-thread(s).

Photos

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