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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 470 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Adam Crofoot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, 2014
Page Views: 422 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Aug 20, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A tribute to the Edmund Fitzgerald and lichen so prevalent in the Adirondacks, this is a committing adventure on a stellar 470' line.

The route begins at the left-hand side of a face below a large flake and detached buttress. A huge square scoop in the face lies to its immediate left. Face climbing leads to a set of three open books, the last containing a crack where placement is critical (yellow Alien). A traverse (crux) to a seam and vertical cracks breaks a small roof before a right leaning crack with two alders and loose blocks.

An off-width crack mixes it up a bit; shimmy up the razor edge of the flake with one leg in the crack. The flake creating the crack is part of the aforementioned detached buttress. Belay slightly right from horizontal cracks above a 6 inch ledge.

Pitch two follows the left leaning OW to the lower angle face above. A network of deep fist cracks lead up to a left arching bulge above a tree-island. The third and final pitch follows up and left to an obvious chimney (10' wide) that breaks the ledges at the top. Use the face directly right of the chimney if it's too wet.

Rappel down the route.

Other Resources:
Adirondack Rock-New Routes.
Account of the FA with photos & video.
On Adirondack Almanack

Location

175' south of the Cloudsplitter/Agharta ice route on the Agharta Wall in Panther Gorge.

Protection

Standard rack with cams to about 3". There are no bolts or fixed gear.

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