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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bushy Pussy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Castle Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Moonraker Runout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Paws Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Dave Jackson, Scott Olsen 1978
Page Views: 155 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 13, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is one of the most striking features in the gorge and, from Mt. Haystack, appears as a plumb shadow splitting the Chimney Wall. The chimney is a 6’ wide trap dike inset 20’ into the cliff. A large diagonal chockstone caps the top. The first of 3 attempts was with Adam Crofoot (lead climber) who climbed 1/3 of the way up on thin ice in December of 2014.

Climb an obvious line along a bomber crack that runs up most of the lefthand corner. The crux is fairly low on one of the slightly overhanging sections of trap rock. Positive hands and feet are on the wall as well. Exit up the righthand corner after passing under the open door of the tomb (chockstone). Belay from trees.

Location

Bushwhack from Agharta Wall to the glade below the Overhang Slide (you can see the chimney from both). Walk uphill to a gully leading to the wall.

Protection

Gear: Double cams up to 4” and bring a 5”. Double ropes are helpful if you want to avoid a heinous rappel.

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