Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Dave Jackson, Scott Olsen 1978
Page Views: 166 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 13, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the most striking features in the gorge and, from Mt. Haystack, appears as a plumb shadow splitting the Chimney Wall. The chimney is a 6’ wide trap dike inset 20’ into the cliff. A large diagonal chockstone caps the top. The first of 3 attempts was with Adam Crofoot (lead climber) who climbed 1/3 of the way up on thin ice in December of 2014.

Climb an obvious line along a bomber crack that runs up most of the lefthand corner. The crux is fairly low on one of the slightly overhanging sections of trap rock. Positive hands and feet are on the wall as well. Exit up the righthand corner after passing under the open door of the tomb (chockstone). Belay from trees.

Location

Bushwhack from Agharta Wall to the glade below the Overhang Slide (you can see the chimney from both). Walk uphill to a gully leading to the wall.

Protection

Gear: Double cams up to 4” and bring a 5”. Double ropes are helpful if you want to avoid a heinous rappel.

Photos

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