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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 410 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Dan Plumley 2015 Sept 19
Page Views: 219 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A diverse route on the face of the buttress directly next to a large gully right of the Feline Wall. Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb. Welcome to the Promised Land!

P1 5.7 160’ PG Climb a right rising ramp at the bottom left of the face. Climb face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. About 100’ up as the cracks peter out, make a few sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof and belay.

P2 5.4 80’ PG Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20’ right. Step up on low angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay.

P3 5.8 170’ PG Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a ceiling at about chest height. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left facing corner. Climb the face to dual vertical hand cracks. Climb to their end then right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney to the slight left. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top.

End with 5th class cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully.

Descent: Rappel down gully. Begins with 100' abseil with a couple terraces breaking it up. A second rap is necessary below the P2 section of the route.

Location

Start: Begin 15’ up the left side of the lowest point of the buttress’ slab. You pass below this just before the Feline Wall.

Protection

Traditional rack up to about 3".

Photos

Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
Lake Placid, NY
 
Kevin MudRat MacKenzie   Lake Placid, NY
 
Thanks, Mike! We've been having a blast exploring and still have a couple projects to finish as well as a plethora of other lines in mind. It's such a stunning area! We should go back there sometime. Sep 23, 2015
Good stuff Kevin! You're putting up so many FA's up there that we may start a petition to rename it to Mount Mudrat. Sep 23, 2015