Type: Trad, 410 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Dan Plumley 2015 Sept 19
Page Views: 285 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A diverse route on the face of the buttress directly next to a large gully right of the Feline Wall. Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb. Welcome to the Promised Land!

P1 5.7 160’ PG Climb a right rising ramp at the bottom left of the face. Climb face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. About 100’ up as the cracks peter out, make a few sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof and belay.

P2 5.4 80’ PG Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20’ right. Step up on low angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay.

P3 5.8 170’ PG Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a ceiling at about chest height. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left facing corner. Climb the face to dual vertical hand cracks. Climb to their end then right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney to the slight left. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top.

End with 5th class cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully.

Descent: Rappel down gully. Begins with 100' abseil with a couple terraces breaking it up. A second rap is necessary below the P2 section of the route.

Location

Start: Begin 15’ up the left side of the lowest point of the buttress’ slab. You pass below this just before the Feline Wall.

Protection

Traditional rack up to about 3".

Photos

Good stuff Kevin! You're putting up so many FA's up there that we may start a petition to rename it to Mount Mudrat. Sep 23, 2015
Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
Lake Placid, NY
  5.8
Kevin MudRat MacKenzie   Lake Placid, NY
  5.8
Thanks, Mike! We've been having a blast exploring and still have a couple projects to finish as well as a plethora of other lines in mind. It's such a stunning area! We should go back there sometime. Sep 23, 2015