Type: Trad, 410 ft (124 m), 3 pitches
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Dan Plumley 2015 Sept 19
Page Views: 1,010 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

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Description Suggest change

A diverse route on the face of the buttress directly next to a large gully right of the Feline Wall. Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb. Welcome to the Promised Land!

P1 5.7 160’ PG Climb a right rising ramp at the bottom left of the face. Climb face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. About 100’ up as the cracks peter out, make a few sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof and belay.

P2 5.4 80’ PG Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20’ right. Step up on low angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay.

P3 5.8 170’ PG Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a ceiling at about chest height. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left facing corner. Climb the face to dual vertical hand cracks. Climb to their end then right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney to the slight left. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top.

End with 5th class cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully.

Descent: Rappel down gully. Begins with 100' abseil with a couple terraces breaking it up. A second rap is necessary below the P2 section of the route.

Location Suggest change

Start: Begin 15’ up the left side of the lowest point of the buttress’ slab. You pass below this just before the Feline Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Traditional rack up to about 3".