Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 410 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Dan Plumley 2015 Sept 19|
|Page Views:||231 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 22, 2015|
DescriptionA diverse route on the face of the buttress directly next to a large gully right of the Feline Wall. Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb. Welcome to the Promised Land!
P1 5.7 160 PG Climb a right rising ramp at the bottom left of the face. Climb face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. About 100 up as the cracks peter out, make a few sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof and belay.
P2 5.4 80 PG Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20 right. Step up on low angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay.
P3 5.8 170 PG Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a ceiling at about chest height. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left facing corner. Climb the face to dual vertical hand cracks. Climb to their end then right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney to the slight left. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top.
End with 5th class cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully.
Descent: Rappel down gully. Begins with 100' abseil with a couple terraces breaking it up. A second rap is necessary below the P2 section of the route.