All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Panther Gorge

Rumours of War

Name: Rumours of War
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Panther Gorge

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	And Then the Judgment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Anorthosite Overcast T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bushy Pussy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Castle Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Cracks of My Tears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Had the Radish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Luceo Non Uro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
	Moonraker Runout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Nothing but the Rain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Paws Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Practically Roadside T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Slab the Impaler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Throne to the Lions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Tomcat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trigger Warning T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Wrecking My Zen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
	You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 405 ft (123 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Hunter Lombardi, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015 July 11
Page Views:	1,066 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 12, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).

Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though youll want to make sure it hasnt rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!

Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor.

P1 5.5 - 180
Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on
the face).

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75
Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge.

P3 5.7 - 150
Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.

VIDEO
Shows only P1 and P2.
youtube.com/watch?v=q0iQ4Ye…