All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Panther Gorge

Rumours of War

Name: Rumours of War
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Panther Gorge

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	And Then the Judgment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Anorthosite Overcast T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bushy Pussy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Castle Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Cracks of My Tears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Had the Radish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Luceo Non Uro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
	Moonraker Runout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Nothing but the Rain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Paws Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Practically Roadside T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Slab the Impaler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Throne to the Lions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Tomcat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trigger Warning T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Wrecking My Zen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
	You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 405 ft (123 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Hunter Lombardi, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015 July 11
Page Views:	828 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 12, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).

Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though youll want to make sure it hasnt rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!

Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor.

P1 5.5 - 180
Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on
the face).

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75
Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge.

P3 5.7 - 150
Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.

VIDEO
Shows only P1 and P2.
youtube.com/watch?v=q0iQ4Ye…