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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 405 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hunter Lombardi, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015 July 11
Page Views: 209 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 12, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).

Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though you’ll want to make sure it hasn’t rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!

Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor.

P1 5.5 - 180’
Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on
the face).

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75’
Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge.

P3 5.7 - 150’
Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.

VIDEO
Shows only P1 and P2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0iQ4Ye4wqQ

Location

Bushwhack about 5 minutes south (climber's left) of the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. Start left of the left facing corner that dissects the slab.

Protection

The route eats gear up to 4". Runout slab at top of P2.

Photos

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