Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Schneider, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Nolan Huther 2016 June 4
Page Views: 354 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jun 6, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs an edgy technical slab, slightly overhanging finger- and hand-cracks in the left wall of the Huge Scoop, and breaks through the roofs above the Huge Scoop. This is currently (2016) the southernmost route on the northern walls of Mt. Marcy.

P1 5.6 R: Climb edgy black slab to the first gear 40' up. Continue to left-rising seam and follow it through a small overhang. Belay 30' below headwall where the slab steepens below the first obvious overhanging crack from the left corner of headwall. (Note: Bill Schneider estimated this crack, not part of the route, as about 5.11). 150'

P2 5.9 PG: Traverse left to the right-facing wall with twin chocolate-colored cracks—"double chocolate love" to colorfully quote Schneider. Climb to cracks and follow to their top. Step left onto face at chockstone and belay from horizontal crack below a tree island. 75'

P3 5.8 PG: Step right and climb diagonally up and right over an overlap and up to a 5'-tall left-facing corner with finger crack. Climb right to another crack and follow to roof and left-facing corner. Break through roof via a handcrack and climb to top of a tree island; belay from crack under a roof. 175'

P4 5.8 PG: Climb slightly right and up a left-facing corner with a handcrack and horizontals (other easier options are available including a short OW chimney). Top out on low angle chossy slab and take care of the loose flakes. Climb to the right of a large tree island and belay from trees at the top. 50'

Location

Start: 20' uphill and left of Rumours of War, on top of a 4'-tall "pancake" flake.

Descent: Rappel along right side of Twin Fracture Gully.

Protection

The first pitch is runout for about 40 (5.6 slab). Gear is great thereafter. Standard rack to 4" and some brassies helpful.

Photos

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