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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 505 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Adam Crofoot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, 2014
Page Views: 301 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 16, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

If you want to climb in the most remote area in the High Peaks with Marcy’s northern technical walls and East face in the background, then this 505-foot route may be the perfect venue. With a start to end mileage of 19 miles from the Garden Trailhead (including lunch on Mt. Haystack), this is an adventure in tenacity--but the "climb is worth the view".

The rock is of excellent quality with the first pitch beginning from the basaltic dike on the right side-Mt. Colden’s Trap Dike in miniature. An aesthetic line up a left rising crack with excellent holds and edges breaks a corner to follow thirty feet up a right rising crack on the western aspect face (90'). Easy climbing follows up along cracks in bulges of pitted ‘moonrock’ (180'). The third pitch adds a technical slide into the mix (165') before ending on a small cliff with a handcrack (70').

Route Description On Adirondack Rock

Location

This area lies on a western aspect in the north end of Panther Gorge below the shoulder of Little Haystack. Be prepared to donate a bit of blood in order to get to the base of the route, it's guarded by dense forest.

This previously undocumented cliff lies between a left rising gully on the northern edge and right rising gully (really a basaltic dike) on the right. The gully and dike trend toward each other giving the wall a defined “V” shape.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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