Type: Trad, 505 ft (153 m), 4 pitches
FA: Adam Crofoot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, 2014
Page Views: 999 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 16, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

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Description Suggest change

If you want to climb in the most remote area in the High Peaks with Marcy’s northern technical walls and East face in the background, then this 505-foot route may be the perfect venue. With a start to end mileage of 19 miles from the Garden Trailhead (including lunch on Mt. Haystack), this is an adventure in tenacity--but the "climb is worth the view".

The rock is of excellent quality with the first pitch beginning from the basaltic dike on the right side-Mt. Colden’s Trap Dike in miniature. An aesthetic line up a left rising crack with excellent holds and edges breaks a corner to follow thirty feet up a right rising crack on the western aspect face (90'). Easy climbing follows up along cracks in bulges of pitted ‘moonrock’ (180'). The third pitch adds a technical slide into the mix (165') before ending on a small cliff with a handcrack (70').

Route Description On Adirondack Rock

Location Suggest change

This area lies on a western aspect in the north end of Panther Gorge below the shoulder of Little Haystack. Be prepared to donate a bit of blood in order to get to the base of the route, it's guarded by dense forest.

This previously undocumented cliff lies between a left rising gully on the northern edge and right rising gully (really a basaltic dike) on the right. The gully and dike trend toward each other giving the wall a defined “V” shape.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.