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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dustin Ulrich, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2016 June 17
Page Views: 131 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jun 21, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The route is one of the longest lines on Mt. Marcy’s northern walls with highlights that include an airy climb up an exposed open book on P2 and funky face climbing on P4. Expansive views overlook the Agharta Wall to the left. The world is a troubled place--terror attacks, mass shootings and violence of every form—Galaxy of Tears is a tribute to the fallen victims.

P1: 5.8 120’ G
Follow the left-most fingercrack to a handcrack and belay from cracks at the top near a 3 foot wide flake that overhangs the Agharta Wall.

P2: 5.9 150’ PG
Follow the obvious finger crack up an exposed arête and move left before the overhang. Continue up a slightly left rising dihedral to an open book with the crux at an exposed hand traverse. Climb to its top and belay from a good ledge.

P3: 5.8 170’ PG
Climb a right-facing flake that turns into a corner with sketchy gear. Climb past top of Kat Nap and drift right on low angle slab. Break through the trees to the base of the upper cliff band.

P4: 5.6 160’ G
Begin about 50’ left of a large left-facing corner. Climb obvious cracks/face climb on an extremely featured face – envision an enormous cheese-grater. Follow a short wall left to a chimney. Climb low angle slab to trees and belay.

Location

Start: Begin at the left-hand corner on the steepest area of the Feline Wall. This buttress of the Feline Wall is separated from the low-angle area by a sheer forested rise. The Agharta Wall lies immediately around the corner. Some may find it easier to bushwhack to the Agharta Wall and backtrack up the glade to Galaxy of Tears.

Protection

Rack up to 4".

Photos

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