Type: Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 4 pitches
FA: Bill Schneider, Adam Crofoot, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015
Page Views: 1,923 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Sep 1, 2015
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is one of the true gems of Panther Gorge-clean stone, diverse climbing, a seam under a multi-tiered roof system and splitter handcrack.

P1 5.7 200’ Climb the dark black slab up face holds to a thin crack. Follow for about 40’ to a horizontal crack. Follow a right rising ledge to the huge corner and belay at the end of the rope under small block roofs.

P2 5.9- 110’
Continue up to obvious left facing corner under dominant roof system. Step left 20’ to a vertical crack and climb below a cantilevered block—the Dong of Death. Do not touch the dong. Break right back to the corner then follow the multi-tiered roof/corner system to the lip. (Critical protection above lip). Traverse right about 7 feet to obvious vertical handcrack and climb to top. Follow crack right and belay.

P3 5.7 170’ Up a short left facing corner located to the right. Follow slab to large left facing corner, follow to top. Drift left and belay at tree left of grungy opposing corners.

P4 5.7 80’ Climb cracks for 30’ the break right for 50’ through 5th class krummholz to belay at top of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Descent: Same as Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.

Location Suggest change

Start: Begin in the center of the lowest section of slab on the right-hand side Huge Scoop. The route is directly to the right of Rumours of War.

Protection Suggest change

Protection is great with a full rack up to #5 (though the 5 isn't critical).70 meter double ropes are recommended.

Photos

0 Comments