Type: Trad, 710 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Steven St. Pierre, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
Page Views: 145 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climbs slightly overhanging walls, steep pocketed slab and breaks through the roof system on the right side of the East Face. The view from this area of Marcy boasts remarkable views of the northern walls of Marcy and the entire Haystack massif.

P1 5.9- PG: Boulder up to a rectangular right-facing flake. Attain a narrow grassy ledge and make a sketchy traverse left to an obvious flake/crack. Climb onto lower angle face and 20’ up a left-rising crack. Step out of the crack and face climb to a 1’ high left-rising left-facing corner. Continue to its top and belay below the roof system. 130’.

P2 5.6-PG: Traverse left and step down over a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to its top. Whale flop onto a sloping vegetated ledge. Belay from cracks below roof. 80’

P3 5.9- PG: Climb obvious right-facing flakes on a slightly overhanging wall. Continue up a left-rising handcrack then break right on steep pocketed stone. Continue beyond a right rising crack to a tree island below a vertical wall with a 6” wide crack. Belay from smaller cracks. 180’

P4 5.4 G: Walk up a short grassy ramp to a right-rising crack. You’re now on the white streak from the 2011 rockfall down Marcy’s East Face. Climb easy pocketed stone following obvious cracks then belay from a bowl along the left side. 210’

P5 5.2 PG: Climb up easy slab and belay from trees on left or cracks below cliff at the top. 110’

Location

Start: On a slightly overhanging wall at the bottom right side of Marcy’s East Face about 20’ left of a right-rising chossy gully.

Exit: Walk off right through tree islands. Contour down to Grand Central Slide. Descend slide and exit right into trees before cliff-top. Bushwhack down to the top of a 30’ ledge and rappel.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4".

Photos

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