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Routes in Panther Gorge

All Battered Boyfriends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Ryled Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Things Holy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Anorthofright T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Belshazzar's Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Climb After Slime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
CrazyDog's Halo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Eye for an Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Galaxy of Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Haycrack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Kitten's Got Claws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Less Than Zero PG T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Margin Slide T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
One for the Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Panther's Fang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Panther's Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pioneer Anomaly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predatory Instincts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pride, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Promised Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Psalm 23 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ranger on the Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Revelations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rumours of War T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slacker Cracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tail of Redemption T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Watery Grave TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 710 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Steven St. Pierre, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
Page Views: 101 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Edit]

Climbs slightly overhanging walls, steep pocketed slab and breaks through the roof system on the right side of the East Face. The view from this area of Marcy boasts remarkable views of the northern walls of Marcy and the entire Haystack massif.

P1 5.9- PG: Boulder up to a rectangular right-facing flake. Attain a narrow grassy ledge and make a sketchy traverse left to an obvious flake/crack. Climb onto lower angle face and 20’ up a left-rising crack. Step out of the crack and face climb to a 1’ high left-rising left-facing corner. Continue to its top and belay below the roof system. 130’.

P2 5.6-PG: Traverse left and step down over a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to its top. Whale flop onto a sloping vegetated ledge. Belay from cracks below roof. 80’

P3 5.9- PG: Climb obvious right-facing flakes on a slightly overhanging wall. Continue up a left-rising handcrack then break right on steep pocketed stone. Continue beyond a right rising crack to a tree island below a vertical wall with a 6” wide crack. Belay from smaller cracks. 180’

P4 5.4 G: Walk up a short grassy ramp to a right-rising crack. You’re now on the white streak from the 2011 rockfall down Marcy’s East Face. Climb easy pocketed stone following obvious cracks then belay from a bowl along the left side. 210’

P5 5.2 PG: Climb up easy slab and belay from trees on left or cracks below cliff at the top. 110’

Location [Edit]

Start: On a slightly overhanging wall at the bottom right side of Marcy’s East Face about 20’ left of a right-rising chossy gully.

Exit: Walk off right through tree islands. Contour down to Grand Central Slide. Descend slide and exit right into trees before cliff-top. Bushwhack down to the top of a 30’ ledge and rappel.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack up to 4".

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