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Elevation: 198 ft 60 m
GPS: 42.6168, -70.72759
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

Description Suggest change

This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.

This area has more than just the Main Wall for climbing. Further, with subsequent additions to the website, it is evident that some conceptualize that this area could belong under Cape Ann. However, placing it under that subarea could lead to it being inobvious and submission of duplications. We are in the process of reorganizing this section due to confusion on how these crags are organized on this website. As you can see in the

, there are multiple crags in the vicinity. Note, all the organization can be updated as time goes on. Thanks for your patience.

Per Chris McNeil: Stone Hedge Boulder is a very interesting boulder-like section of the “Main Crag” area. It starts about 15 feet up the large rock debris at the south end of the main face and offers some great 5.10 to 5.11 climbs. Bring extra slings, there were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.

Master's Wall is small crag that may be a perfect option while waiting for you turn on the rope at main crag. It is host to some great bouldery problems. There is one TR anchor as of Spring 2020.

Many climbs in this area can be lead. For top-roping, you'll need long slings for your anchors.


Frosty The Boulder, V1.

Y - Boulder, V1+.

Scotty Bones, 10, 1p, 30', TR.

Stonehenge Boulder - at the South end of the Main Crag.

A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11-, 20'.

B. Little Beaver, 10, 20'.

C. Common Sense, 11+, 20'.

D. East Feet, 10, 20'.

Main Crag

South End

E. Roll the Bones, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.

F. Wings of Steal, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear & bolt.

G. Seappage, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 30', TR or gear.

H. Stonehenge Slab, 8, 1p, 30', TR.

I. Chimney, 6, 1p, 45', TR or gear.

J. Excuse Me, 6, 1p, 40', TR or gear.

K. High Me, 7 R?, 1p, 65', TR or gear.

L. Offwidth, 2, 1p, 25', gear.

M. Swayback, 9+-11, 1p, 10', TR.

Center Crag

N1. Zits, 7-9+, 1p, 50', TR or bolts.

N2. Morning Glory, 8+-10+, 1p, 50', gear.

O? Steps, 5-8, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.

Blank section

P. Steps Direct, 12, 1p, TR, 10' var / 50'.

Q No Steps, 12, 1p, 50', TR.

R or T1. Black Streak, 11+, 1p, 45', TR.

S or T2. Andromeda, 11, 1p, 40', TR or gear.

T3. Zipper, 5, 1p, 40', gear or TR, nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot

T4. Zipper Variation, 8+ - 9 PG-13, 1p, 45', TR or gear.

U. Velcro, 11+, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

V1. Laughing Gull, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear or TR.

V2. Broken Ankle, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.

W1. Midnight Train, 11, 1p, 60', TR? bolts?

W2. Ray's Picture, 10+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.

X. Toe Jams, 5, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

Y. Happy Feet, 8+, 1p, 35', bolts.

Z. The Wizard's Hat, 4, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

North End

AA. No Bolt, 7 or 11, 1p, 20', TR.

BB. Rip Van Winkle, 10- - 10+ PG-13, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

CC. Slip Van Winkle, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.

DD. Slab n' Jab, 3, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Not too far away are Down Under, Master's Wall, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, Pink Floyd Wall, & Plateau Boulder.

Getting There Suggest change

This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go East on Hwy 128, go briefly Northwest on Hwy 133. Turn left, there are two parking areas. The main parking area is on the north side of the overpass on 133, just before the storage units. The second which WAS usually the overflow parking lot is the field to the left of the exit, but Gloucester PD will and have TOWED cars parked there! A total of about 30-40 cars could be parked between these two lots, so there is plenty of parking. Parking laws are unfortunately enforced! Per Dan Knisell: additional parking may be found on Forest Lane, but the approach is from the other side and much longer. If the parking lot is full, you must find another spot to climb.

Per Justin C: as of June 21, 2020: the gravel "overflow parking lot" now has no trespassing signs, and cars have been ticketed and towed from the lot.

Per Chris McNeil: to get to Pink Floyd Wall, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see it right in front of you. It is approximately 1/4 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: to get to the Stonehenge Boulder, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see Pink Floyd Wall, then continue past it following the trail northwest. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Main Crag, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 past Pink Floyd Wall (turning northwest) and past Stone Hedge. It is approximately 1/3 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Master's Wall, from main crag turn east away from the rock, walk up to the top of the ridge and you are on top of it.

Per mnatti: to get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most).


Other Nearby Crags

Suggest change
In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

177 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Redrocks and Vicinity Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Redrocks and Vicinity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3-4 6A+
Superior V3
V4 6B
Afternoon on a Hill
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Roll the Bones
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
High Me
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Morning Glory
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rip Van Winkle
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Pro
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unnamed Bolted Face
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Doug's Roof
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Laughing Gull
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Superior V3 Redrocks Boulde… > Approach Boulder
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Afternoon on a Hill Redrocks Boulde… > Above Oz Boulders
V4 6B Boulder
Toe Jams Red Rock Main Area
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Roll the Bones Red Rock Main Area
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Zipper Red Rock Main Area
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Chimney Red Rock Main Area
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
High Me Red Rock Main Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Steps Red Rock Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zits Red Rock Main Area
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Morning Glory Red Rock Main Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rip Van Winkle Red Rock Main Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
No Pro Down Under
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Unnamed Bolted Face Pink Floyd Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Doug's Roof Down Under
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
Laughing Gull Red Rock Main Area
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Redrocks and Vicinity »

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