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Redrocks and Vicinity Climbing
| Elevation: | 198 ft | 60 m |
| GPS: |
42.6168, -70.72759 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 204,355 total · 882/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.
This area has more than just the Main Wall for climbing. Further, with subsequent additions to the website, it is evident that some conceptualize that this area could belong under Cape Ann. However, placing it under that subarea could lead to it being inobvious and submission of duplications. We are in the process of reorganizing this section due to confusion on how these crags are organized on this website. As you can see in the 
Per Chris McNeil: Stone Hedge Boulder is a very interesting boulder-like section of the “Main Crag” area. It starts about 15 feet up the large rock debris at the south end of the main face and offers some great 5.10 to 5.11 climbs. Bring extra slings, there were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.
Master's Wall is small crag that may be a perfect option while waiting for you turn on the rope at main crag. It is host to some great bouldery problems. There is one TR anchor as of Spring 2020.
Many climbs in this area can be lead. For top-roping, you'll need long slings for your anchors.
L->R:
Frosty The Boulder, V1.
Y - Boulder, V1+.
Scotty Bones, 10, 1p, 30', TR.
Stonehenge Boulder - at the South end of the Main Crag.
A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11-, 20'.
B. Little Beaver, 10, 20'.
C. Common Sense, 11+, 20'.
D. East Feet, 10, 20'.
Main Crag
South End
E. Roll the Bones, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Wings of Steal, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear & bolt.
G. Seappage, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 30', TR or gear.
H. Stonehenge Slab, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
I. Chimney, 6, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
J. Excuse Me, 6, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
K. High Me, 7 R?, 1p, 65', TR or gear.
L. Offwidth, 2, 1p, 25', gear.
M. Swayback, 9+-11, 1p, 10', TR.
Center Crag
N1. Zits, 7-9+, 1p, 50', TR or bolts.
N2. Morning Glory, 8+-10+, 1p, 50', gear.
O? Steps, 5-8, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
Blank section
P. Steps Direct, 12, 1p, TR, 10' var / 50'.
Q No Steps, 12, 1p, 50', TR.
R or T1. Black Streak, 11+, 1p, 45', TR.
S or T2. Andromeda, 11, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
T3. Zipper, 5, 1p, 40', gear or TR, nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot
T4. Zipper Variation, 8+ - 9 PG-13, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
U. Velcro, 11+, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
V1. Laughing Gull, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear or TR.
V2. Broken Ankle, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
W1. Midnight Train, 11, 1p, 60', TR? bolts?
W2. Ray's Picture, 10+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.
X. Toe Jams, 5, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
Y. Happy Feet, 8+, 1p, 35', bolts.
Z. The Wizard's Hat, 4, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
North End
AA. No Bolt, 7 or 11, 1p, 20', TR.
BB. Rip Van Winkle, 10- - 10+ PG-13, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
CC. Slip Van Winkle, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.
DD. Slab n' Jab, 3, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
Not too far away are Down Under, Master's Wall, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, Pink Floyd Wall, & Plateau Boulder.
Getting There
This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go East on Hwy 128, go briefly Northwest on Hwy 133. Turn left, there are two parking areas. The main parking area is on the north side of the overpass on 133, just before the storage units. The second which WAS usually the overflow parking lot is the field to the left of the exit, but Gloucester PD will and have TOWED cars parked there! A total of about 30-40 cars could be parked between these two lots, so there is plenty of parking. Parking laws are unfortunately enforced! Per Dan Knisell: additional parking may be found on Forest Lane, but the approach is from the other side and much longer. If the parking lot is full, you must find another spot to climb. "it can a…
Per
Per Chris McNeil: to get to Pink Floyd Wall, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see it right in front of you. It is approximately 1/4 mile.
Per Chris McNeil: to get to the Stonehenge Boulder, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see Pink Floyd Wall, then continue past it following the trail northwest. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.
Per Chris McNeil: for the Main Crag, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 past Pink Floyd Wall (turning northwest) and past Stone Hedge. It is approximately 1/3 mile.
Per Chris McNeil: for the Master's Wall, from main crag turn east away from the rock, walk up to the top of the ridge and you are on top of it.
Per mnatti: to get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most).
Other Nearby Crags
In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:
Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall AKA South Wall
Classic Climbing Routes at Redrocks and Vicinity
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