Elevation: 198 ft
GPS: 42.617, -70.728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 111,338 total · 653/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.

This area has more than just the Main Wall for climbing. Further, with subsequent additions to the website, it is evident that some conceptualize that this area could belong under Cape Ann. However, placing it under that subarea could lead to it being inobvious and submission of duplications. We are in the process of reorganizing this section due to confusion on how these crags are organized on this website. As you can see in the

Redrock amd vicinity. , there are multiple crags in the vicinity. Note, all the organization can be updated as time goes on. Thanks for your patience.

Per Chris McNeil: Stone Hedge Boulder is a very interesting boulder-like section of the “Main Crag” area. It starts about 15 feet up the large rock debris at the south end of the main face and offers some great 5.10 to 5.11 climbs. Bring extra slings, there were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.

Master's Wall is small crag that may be a perfect option while waiting for you turn on the rope at main crag. It is host to some great bouldery problems. There is one TR anchor as of Spring 2020.

Many climbs in this area can be lead. For top-roping, you'll need long slings for your anchors.

L->R:

Frosty The Boulder, V1.

Y - Boulder, V1+.

Scotty Bones, 10, 1p, 30', TR.

Stonehenge Boulder - at the South end of the Main Crag.

A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11-, 20'.

B. Little Beaver, 10, 20'.

C. Common Sense, 11+, 20'.

D. East Feet, 10, 20'.

Main Crag

South End

E. Roll the Bones, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.

F. Wings of Steal, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear & bolt.

G. Seappage, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 30', TR or gear.

H. Stonehenge Slab, 8, 1p, 30', TR.

I. Chimney, 6, 1p, 45', TR or gear.

J. Excuse Me, 6, 1p, 40', TR or gear.

K. High Me, 7 R?, 1p, 65', TR or gear.

L. Offwidth, 2, 1p, 25', gear.

M. Swayback, 9+-11, 1p, 10', TR.

Center Crag

N1. Zits, 7-9+, 1p, 50', TR or bolts.

N2. Morning Glory, 8+-10+, 1p, 50', gear.

O? Steps, 5-8, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.

Blank section

P. Steps Direct, 12, 1p, TR, 10' var / 50'.

Q No Steps, 12, 1p, 50', TR.

R or T1. Black Streak, 11+, 1p, 45', TR.

S or T2. Andromeda, 11, 1p, 40', TR or gear.

T3. Zipper, 5, 1p, 40', gear or TR, nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot

T4. Zipper Variation, 8+ - 9 PG-13, 1p, 45', TR or gear.

U. Velcro, 11+, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

V1. Laughing Gull, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear or TR.

V2. Broken Ankle, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.

W1. Midnight Train, 11, 1p, 60', TR? bolts?

W2. Ray's Picture, 10+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.

X. Toe Jams, 5, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

Y. Happy Feet, 8+, 1p, 35', bolts.

Z. The Wizard's Hat, 4, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

North End

AA. No Bolt, 7 or 11, 1p, 20', TR.

BB. Rip Van Winkle, 10- - 10+ PG-13, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

CC. Slip Van Winkle, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.

DD. Slab n' Jab, 3, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Not too far away are Down Under, Master's Wall, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, Pink Floyd Wall, & Plateau Boulder.

Getting There

This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go East on Hwy 128, go briefly Northwest on Hwy 133. Turn left, there are two parking areas. The main parking area is on the north side of the overpass on 133, just before the storage units. The second which WAS usually the overflow parking lot is the field to the left of the exit, but Gloucester PD will and have TOWED cars parked there! A total of about 30-40 cars could be parked between these two lots, so there is plenty of parking. Parking laws are unfortunately enforced! Per Dan Knisell: additional parking may be found on Forest Lane, but the approach is from the other side and much longer. If the parking lot is full, you must find another spot to climb.

Per Justin C: as of June 21, 2020: the gravel "overflow parking lot" now has no trespassing signs, and cars have been ticketed and towed from the lot.

Per Chris McNeil: to get to Pink Floyd Wall, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see it right in front of you. It is approximately 1/4 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: to get to the Stonehenge Boulder, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see Pink Floyd Wall, then continue past it following the trail northwest. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Main Crag, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 past Pink Floyd Wall (turning northwest) and past Stone Hedge. It is approximately 1/3 mile.

Per Chris McNeil: for the Master's Wall, from main crag turn east away from the rock, walk up to the top of the ridge and you are on top of it.

Per mnatti: to get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most).

Weather

Other Nearby Crags

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.

178 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Redrocks and Vicinity Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Redrocks and Vicinity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 3
Superior V3
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 71
Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 42
Roll the Bones
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 160
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 32
Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 27
High Me
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Excuse Me
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Steps
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 43
Zits
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
The Plank
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Morning Glory
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Rip Van Winkle
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Unnamed Bolted Face
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
 5
Doug's Roof
Boulder
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 16
Laughing Gull
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Superior V3 Redrocks Boulde… > Approach Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Toe Jams Red Rock Main Area
 71
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Roll the Bones Red Rock Main Area
 42
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Zipper Red Rock Main Area
 160
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Chimney Red Rock Main Area
 32
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
High Me Red Rock Main Area
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Excuse Me Red Rock Main Area
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Steps Red Rock Main Area
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zits Red Rock Main Area
 43
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
The Plank Red Rock Main Area
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Morning Glory Red Rock Main Area
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rip Van Winkle Red Rock Main Area
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Unnamed Bolted Face Pink Floyd Wall
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Doug's Roof Down Under
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
Laughing Gull Red Rock Main Area
 16
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Redrocks and Vicinity »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos