Redrocks and Vicinity Climbing
|GPS:||42.617, -70.728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle|
This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.
This area has more than just the Main Wall for climbing. Further, with subsequent additions to the website, it is evident that some conceptualize that this area could belong under Cape Ann. However, placing it under that subarea could lead to it being inobvious and submission of duplications. We are in the process of reorganizing this section due to confusion on how these crags are organized on this website. As you can see in the Redrock amd vicinity. , there are multiple crags in the vicinity. Note, all the organization can be updated as time goes on. Thanks for your patience.
Per Chris McNeil: Stone Hedge Boulder is a very interesting boulder-like section of the Main Crag area. It starts about 15 feet up the large rock debris at the south end of the main face and offers some great 5.10 to 5.11 climbs. Bring extra slings, there were no TR anchors as of the Fall of 2011.
Master's Wall is small crag that may be a perfect option while waiting for you turn on the rope at main crag. It is host to some great bouldery problems. There is one TR anchor as of Spring 2020.
Many climbs in this area can be lead. For top-roping, you'll need long slings for your anchors.
Frosty The Boulder, V1.
Y - Boulder, V1+.
Scotty Bones, 10, 1p, 30', TR.
Stonehenge Boulder - at the South end of the Main Crag.
A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11-, 20'.
B. Little Beaver, 10, 20'.
C. Common Sense, 11+, 20'.
D. East Feet, 10, 20'.
E. Roll the Bones, 7, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Wings of Steal, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear & bolt.
G. Seappage, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 30', TR or gear.
H. Stonehenge Slab, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
I. Chimney, 6, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
J. Excuse Me, 6, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
K. High Me, 7 R?, 1p, 65', TR or gear.
L. Offwidth, 2, 1p, 25', gear.
M. Swayback, 9+-11, 1p, 10', TR.
N1. Zits, 7-9+, 1p, 50', TR or bolts.
N2. Morning Glory, 8+-10+, 1p, 50', gear.
O? Steps, 5-8, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
P. Steps Direct, 12, 1p, TR, 10' var / 50'.
Q No Steps, 12, 1p, 50', TR.
R or T1. Black Streak, 11+, 1p, 45', TR.
S or T2. Andromeda, 11, 1p, 40', TR or gear.
T4. Zipper Variation, 8+ - 9 PG-13, 1p, 45', TR or gear.
U. Velcro, 11+, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
V1. Laughing Gull, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear or TR.
V2. Broken Ankle, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
W1. Midnight Train, 11, 1p, 60', TR? bolts?
W2. Ray's Picture, 10+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.
X. Toe Jams, 5, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
Y. Happy Feet, 8+, 1p, 35', bolts.
Z. The Wizard's Hat, 4, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
AA. No Bolt, 7 or 11, 1p, 20', TR.
BB. Rip Van Winkle, 10- - 10+ PG-13, 1p, 35', gear or TR.
CC. Slip Van Winkle, 10+, 1p, 35', bolts.
DD. Slab n' Jab, 3, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
Per Justin C: as of June 21, 2020: the gravel "overflow parking lot" now has no trespassing signs, and cars have been ticketed and towed from the lot.
Per Chris McNeil: to get to Pink Floyd Wall, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see it right in front of you. It is approximately 1/4 mile.
Per Chris McNeil: to get to the Stonehenge Boulder, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 until you see Pink Floyd Wall, then continue past it following the trail northwest. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.
Per Chris McNeil: for the Main Crag, follow the main trail west from the parking lot along Route 128 past Pink Floyd Wall (turning northwest) and past Stone Hedge. It is approximately 1/3 mile.
Per Chris McNeil: for the Master's Wall, from main crag turn east away from the rock, walk up to the top of the ridge and you are on top of it.
Per mnatti: to get to Oz, go right just after the storage area and follow the pipeline road up hill until you can see the cliffs on the left (perhaps 5 minutes at the most).
Other Nearby Crags
nearby Plateau Boulder
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Redrocks and Vicinity
Days w Precip