Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: a climber
Page Views: 7,056 total · 52/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 16, 2007 with updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


95 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the finer routes here. It ascends an obvious crack that is typically laybacked. It just begs to be climbed. The crux is mid-height where it jogs left. Continue up. Enjoy. One of the nicest short routes in New England, IMHO.

Location

This is on the right side of the crag. Click on this if you can't figure out which line.

Protection

Easily protected with either cams, hexes or stoppers.

Photos

jim.dangle
  5.6
jim.dangle  
  5.6
Zipper like most of the climbs here have bolt anchors to top rope from. Mar 3, 2016
What is needed for a TR set up on Zipper? Mar 2, 2016
Joshua Wise
Mountain View, CA
  5.6
Joshua Wise   Mountain View, CA
  5.6
Very good route -- my second trad lead.

Can be reasonably protected with just a set of stoppers, IMO. Protecting the bottom is a *little* bit tenuous with just that (I set a #13 BD stopper 8ft off the ground or so as an upward piece, and it was not a great placement; I imagine someone with more experience could have made it better), but the rest can be protected very easily with a standard #4 - #13 set -- lots of good stances to stitch it up as much or as little as you like.

Florian's comment makes sense, though. It does sound fairly hollow. Maybe good for practicing placing gear, but falling maybe not recommended :-) Luckily the hands are good enough that even when the feet skate on the lieback, it's easy to save... Nov 26, 2015
Liam Paull
  5.6
Liam Paull  
  5.6
Beautiful route. Just spicy enough to be interesting. Nov 9, 2014
Great fun route, got my first lead on this! My friend had a single set of stoppers and placed a few prices, then I led it and placed the rest. EDIT: he had one solid stemmed cam he got second hand which he placed as the first piece, a #1 I think. Nov 13, 2013
jTaylor
 
jTaylor  
 
Great route to work on building confidence free soloing Oct 21, 2013
Dan Friedman
Boulder, CO
 
Dan Friedman   Boulder, CO
 
Thought this was a fantastic route, wished it went on for another 100 feet. Anchors up top currently. I will say, while the climbing itself didn't feel difficult, stopping to place gear from a friction/layback spiced things up a bit, but I'm hardly a veteran leader. I'd come back just to do this again. Jul 22, 2013
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.5
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.5
This would be a noted classic if it were anywhere else. As it is, one of the best routes at the grade in the region. Mar 20, 2009

More About Zipper

Printer-Friendly Guide