Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pink Floyd Wall

Animals TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Atom Heart Mother S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side of the Moon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ummagumma V0+ 4+
Unnamed Bolted Face S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Henry Barber, retrobolted in 2010
Page Views: 1,239 total, 17/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Make reachy moves on thin edges to a sort of cool stemming crux (using the left side of the Dark Side Flake).

This may be the only true face climb at the otherwise slabby Redrock.

Location

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. This climb ascends up the face on the left of the prominent Dark Side flake.

Protection

3 bolts to TR anchors at the top. The anchors are set back from the main face, so this requires long slings to set up properly.

Photos

Zac Clark  
 
Anyone know what's up with the anchor bolt that's missing a hanger? Should a hanger be put back on, or is there a reason it was pulled off? Nov 10, 2016
Dan Pfistner
BEVERLY, MA
 
Dan Pfistner   BEVERLY, MA
 
I wanna see someone less than 5'7" or so give this a go. I'm 5'10" and feel just barely tall enough to keep this in the 5.10 range for me. A new favorite route for me nonetheless. Apr 20, 2013
Such a good route, varied slab at the bottom and thin and techy stemming and crimping at the top to a crescendo "thank God", juggy finish. I think that the bolts should stay and not be chopped, it's such a beautiful lead, and climbing it on TR is fun, but leading it is an amazing experience. It took me a lot of moving up and down just before the crux trying to visualize the sequence before I committed to firing to the top. Jul 18, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
Right, so I chatted with Matty, and Barber never named his routes. So out of respect, we'll just have to leave this one. But in the interest of organizing things out here, the routes have been given proper names after Pink Floyd albums...chronologically from left to right. Jan 8, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Maybe we could ask Henry Barber for a name, since he is credited with the FA? Jan 8, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
Does anyone think we could give some of these unnamed climbs names? Perhaps Pink Floyd albums would keep the theme going? Jan 8, 2012
mnatti  
So far as the verbal history goes... this is a Henry Barber first ascent. It was originally lead on just 2 RPs (yuck!). Some damn eager beaver named Matt Natti bolted it in 2010, thinking that it was just a TR line. After I discovered the mistake... Henry Barber was contacted and officially said he is against bolting at all, but he unofficially let this incident slide. For any potential "choppers" - please know that the second bolt is in a hollow section of granite, hence the glue-in ring. If this was chopped, it could fracture the outermost layer of the rock, which would probably make an awesome 5.10 into a 5.7... so please leave the crowbars at home. Dec 4, 2011
jim.dangle  
 
If anyone knows anything about the this climb, let me know and I'll add it.

Thanks,

Jim Nov 27, 2011