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Areas in Cape Ann

128 Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Above Oz Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Agassiz Rock Reservation 0 / 0 / 2 / 66 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 66
Alley Slab, The 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Approach Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Arrowhead Cliff 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Beaver Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Climbing 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Dogtown 0 / 0 / 0 / 182 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 182
Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks) 6 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Down Under 7 / 3 / 16 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Down Under Over 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Drive-By Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) 0 / 0 / 0 / 180 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 180
Fire Tower 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Half Dome Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Haskell Pond AKA Redrock West 0 / 0 / 0 / 55 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
Hesperus 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Homeless Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Kleimola Reservation 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Kong Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lost Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Magnolia Avenue 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Manchester Essex Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Master's Wall 1 / 0 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mop Gripping Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Mt. Ann 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Norton Memorial Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Orange Diamond Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Oz 10 / 5 / 11 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Oz Talus Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pet Slabs, The 2 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pine Street 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Pink Floyd Wall 2 / 2 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Pipeline Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Pipeline Buttress 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Plateau Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Pool Hill Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Quarry Slabs 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Rafe's Chasm 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Rafe's Chasm Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Ravenswood Boulder - Gloucester, MA 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Ravenswood Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Redrocks North 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Rockport South Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 83 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 83
Salt Marsh Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Skull Island Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Stage Fort Park 2 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Stavros Reservation Buildering, Essex 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Sunshine Wall 2 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Tenpound Island 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Thomas St. Reservation 1 / 0 / 1 / 181 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 182
Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Vet Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 47 ft
GPS: 42.619, -70.667 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 141,319 total, 1,295/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

Description

Cape Ann is the bulge of land north of Boston on which Gloucester is the largest city and one of the oldest functioning seaports in the New World. This area is studded throughout with a wealth of granite, mainly boulders and short cliffs. Tucked away in the woods of Gloucester, Essex, Manchester-by-the-Sea, Marblehead, Peabody, Lynn, and other towns are few-and-far-between bouldering destinations and cliff bands with high quality routes on exquisite, bulletproof New England granite.

In this subarea, we will only have Cape Ann crags.

Getting There

Drive north from Boston on I-93 to the junction of I-95 and Route 128. Peabody bouldering exists right at this junction of highways. All destinations in Gloucester and other neighboring towns straddle Route 128 after its divergence from I-95 as it heads toward Gloucester.

Special Note

To avoid difficulty in finding perhaps the best known of the Cape Ann crags, Redrock, this particular crag has been left out separately under the general Massachusetts page, since some climbers, even locals, do not necessarily think first to look under Cape Ann when looking for Redrock.

1,000 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cape Ann

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
Unknown 3
Boulder
V2+ 5+
Another Unnamed Face Problem
Boulder
V3 6A
Glorious
Boulder
V4- 6B
Driven to Perfection
Boulder
V4 6B
Whacky
Boulder
V4 6B
Fishnet Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
Plumb Line
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
Thee Off-width
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
The Smiley Problem
Boulder
V5 6C
Unnamed
Boulder
V6- 7A
Gun Shot Arete
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Bolted Face
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Corner
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangles Crack
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Doug's Roof
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown 3 Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > Valley V2 5+ Boulder
Another Unnamed Face Problem Agassiz Rock Rese… > Agassiz Rock > Silo Boulder V2+ 5+ Boulder
Glorious Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > The Alcove V3 6A Boulder
Driven to Perfection Agassiz Rock Rese… > Agassiz Rock > Little Agassiz V4- 6B Boulder
Whacky Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > The Alcove V4 6B Boulder
Fishnet Arete Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > Fishnet Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Plumb Line Thomas St. Reserv… > … > Great Swamp Boulders > Swamp 2 Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Thee Off-width Thomas St. Reserv… > … > Concord St. Entrance > Driven Boulder V4-5 6B+ Boulder
The Smiley Problem Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > Cavalry Boulder V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Unnamed Thomas St. Reserv… > Cavalry Boulder F… > Cavalry Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Gun Shot Arete Dogtown > Rifle Range Boulders > Gun Shot Boulder V6- 7A Boulder
Unnamed Bolted Face Pink Floyd Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Corner Dorset St. Crag (… > Quarry Area 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Dangles Crack Sunshine Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR
Doug's Roof Down Under 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Cape Ann »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
I've mapped many of the Cape Ann areas and have just started mapping individual boulders within the Gymnasium/Great Swamp area as well as Dogtown. If you'd like to contribute to the map, let me know.

caltopo.com/m/71QP Nov 20, 2017
Cape Ann in general has a rich history of climbing. Hard locals who you have never heard of have done the majority of these problems back in the '80s. It is out of respect to these individuals that I (nor should anyone else) claim first ascents or name (aside from just a form of description from one to another) these problems. They are there, they have been there, and they have all been climbed. Enjoy, clean up after yourself and respect. Granite. May 25, 2011
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Hey Jim - Great Link! He mentions the House and Barn boulders in this link, and I found another link about them that says there are even more in the Westford Woods. Anyone know more?

the-conglomerate-journals.b…
frankwinters.wordpress.com/… Aug 18, 2014
I was looking for info on some boulders in Peabody when I came across this eccentric site.

the-conglomerate-journals.b…

Among the many pages of random rock related pictures, there are several interesting ones of large erratics and good-looking outcrops on and around Cape Ann and Essex County in general. Most are historic shots. Many of these are probably known about by some boulderer, but if anyone is bored or motivated (the two are often same thing) and wants to find some new stone to climb dig through these images. You might find something cool.

Jim May 9, 2013
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
Mop Grip Quarry might be good. Most of the quarries in Gloucester should be warm(isher), but right now I think your gonna be fighting the ice that's starting to come in. Bouldering this time of year is generally a safe bet though. Jan 3, 2013
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
How are the climbing conditions this time of year? Sunshine wall seems like an obvious choice, but wondering if there are other good cold weather options.... Dec 28, 2012
mnatti  
The top anchors in question were put in by me and get mostly used by project adventure, but there are a number of short, fun lines there for folks climbing 5.5 - 5.8. The best access is parking by the Plum Cove beachball field (resident sticker required) and hiking up the trail. The bouldering in Dogtown is amazing but involves quite a bit of walking, and unless you are very familiar with the trails, it is hard to say where the best blocks are. A Dogtown map is availible (The Gloucester Book Store, on-line? and at the kiosk heading into dogtown off Cherry St.) and a great start for bouldering is Whales Jaw, Peter's Pulpit, and Spiritual Power at the Babson Boulders. PM me if you want a bit more goods. Oct 12, 2012
My parents moved to Rockport a few years ago, and I've been in town a couple times. After a bit of exploration, I discovered a few top rope anchors above a slab at the one of the Lanesville Pits. Anybody know anything about these climbs? I'm planning on checking it out when I return this November. The routes are probably 20-30 feet on what looks like pretty low angle slab, as I remember, so nothing to get too excited about.

It also occurs to me that there could be top rope potential for some longer routes on the walls at a few of the quarries. Not to mention soloing on the quarry walls! One of the Lanesville Pits (northeast?) has a wall which is more than 40 feet. I was also told of a third pit with a 75 foot wall, but I wasn't able to find it. It may also be possible to access the walls by traversing above the water from near the bottom, but I didn't look closely.

Also, presumably people have bouldered on some of the numerous boulders in Dogtown Commons, but there isn't any information here.

From previous posts, I'm led to believe that everything climbable on Cape Ann has been climbed. It would be nice to preserve some of the history, which is only possible if it's documented!

I'm not sure where else to look for information; any help is appreciated. Oct 9, 2012
Chris had me belay him on this slab onsight/clean and scrub/trad... and the start is the crux with 3m of steep slab and no pro till that crack. T.o unknown bugs were killer that day, didn't care to stick around... when will the winter come!? Aug 11, 2012



Anyone ever climbed this little slabby wall? It's located in the Cavalry Boulder Field area (across from Red Rock). It's visible on the topo as the large rocky outcrop near the Orange path after the Orange and Green Paths separate. It's not huge but has potential for a route or two.

Jim Mar 27, 2012
Ozzy  
vimeo.com/24564206

In this video is Aggasiz and Dyke's Pond and one from Calvary. A couple other "secret" areas. Jun 4, 2011
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
The Driven Boulder.... vimeo.com/8490946 Jan 4, 2011

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