Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 47 ft 14 m
GPS: 42.6188, -70.6668
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,226,695 total · 6,478/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

Description Suggest change

Cape Ann is the bulge of land north of Boston on which Gloucester is the largest city and one of the oldest functioning seaports in the New World. This area is studded throughout with a wealth of granite, mainly boulders and short cliffs. Tucked away in the woods of Gloucester, Rockport, Essex, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and Marblehead as well as other towns are few-and-far-between bouldering destinations and cliff bands with high quality routes on exquisite, bulletproof New England granite.

The local ethos of Cape Ann has traditionally been to develop pure lines which are not contrived eliminates and do not detract from established problems or routes. Please respect that spirit and refrain from posting contrived eliminate boulder problems or routes from this area on Mountain Project.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive north from Boston on I-93 to the junction of I-95 and Route 128. Peabody bouldering exists right at this junction of highways. All destinations in Gloucester and other neighboring towns straddle Route 128 after its divergence from I-95 as it heads toward Gloucester.

Special Note

Suggest change
To avoid difficulty in finding perhaps the best known of the Cape Ann crags, Redrock, this particular crag has been left out separately under the general Massachusetts page, since some climbers, even locals, do not necessarily think first to look under Cape Ann when looking for Redrock.

1,467 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Cape Ann Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Cape Ann

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 8
Spiritual Power Crack
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 8
Superior V3
Boulder
V4 6B
 10
Fishnet Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 14
Plumb Line
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 12
Satan Right
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 26
Total Recall
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 14
2. Genesis
Boulder
V5 6C
 12
Calvary V5
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Satan Center
Boulder
V6 7A
 15
Final Judgment
Boulder
V7 7A+
 15
The Force
Boulder
V9 7C
 9
NE Dragon
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 214
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
The Corner
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
 9
Doug's Roof
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spiritual Power Crack Dogtown > Spiritual Power Boulder
 8
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Superior V3 Redrocks & Vici… > Redrocks Boulde… > Approach Boulder
 8
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Fishnet Arete Tompson St Rese… > … > 2. Central Sector > Fishnet Boulders
 10
V4 6B Boulder
Plumb Line Tompson St Rese… > … > Great Swamp Bou… > Swamp 2 Boulders
 14
V4 6B Boulder
Satan Right 128 Boulder
 12
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Total Recall Dykes Pond (Glo… > E Side > Trailside Boulder 2
 26
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
2. Genesis Dykes Pond (Glo… > E Side > Shoreline Boulder 3
 14
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Calvary V5 Tompson St Rese… > … > 2. Central Sector > Cavalry Boulder
 12
V5 6C Boulder
Satan Center 128 Boulder
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Final Judgment Dykes Pond (Glo… > N Side > Beehive Boulders
 15
V6 7A Boulder
The Force Tompson St Rese… > Mt Jacob Boulders > Force Boulder Cluster
 15
V7 7A+ Boulder
NE Dragon Dykes Pond (Glo… > … > Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder
 9
V9 7C Boulder
Zipper Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 214
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Corner Dorset Drive Cr… > Quarry Area
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Doug's Roof Redrocks & Vici… > Down Under
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Cape Ann »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading