Elevation: 47 ft
GPS: 42.619, -70.667 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 584,059 total · 4,158/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

Cape Ann is the bulge of land north of Boston on which Gloucester is the largest city and one of the oldest functioning seaports in the New World. This area is studded throughout with a wealth of granite, mainly boulders and short cliffs. Tucked away in the woods of Gloucester, Rockport, Essex, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and Marblehead as well as other towns are few-and-far-between bouldering destinations and cliff bands with high quality routes on exquisite, bulletproof New England granite.

The local ethos of Cape Ann has traditionally been to develop pure lines which are not contrived eliminates and do not detract from established problems or routes. Please respect that spirit and refrain from posting contrived eliminate boulder problems or routes from this area on Mountain Project.

Getting There

Drive north from Boston on I-93 to the junction of I-95 and Route 128. Peabody bouldering exists right at this junction of highways. All destinations in Gloucester and other neighboring towns straddle Route 128 after its divergence from I-95 as it heads toward Gloucester.

Special Note

To avoid difficulty in finding perhaps the best known of the Cape Ann crags, Redrock, this particular crag has been left out separately under the general Massachusetts page, since some climbers, even locals, do not necessarily think first to look under Cape Ann when looking for Redrock.

1,307 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cape Ann

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 4
Freshly Squeezed
Boulder
V4 6B
 11
Plumb Line
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 15
Total Recall
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 4
Thee Off-width
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Gold Medal
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Flawless
Boulder
V6- 7A
 4
Gun Shot Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 10
Final Judgment
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 66
Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 145
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 38
Roll the Bones
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Steps
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 38
Zits
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Morning Glory
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
 5
Doug's Roof
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Freshly Squeezed Rockport S Woods > Megatron Area > Lunch Break Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Plumb Line Tompson St Rese… > … > Great Swamp Bou… > Swamp 2 Boulders
 11
V4 6B Boulder
Total Recall Dyke's Pond (Gl… > E Side > Trailside Boulder 2
 15
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Thee Off-width Tompson St Rese… > … > Concord St Entr… > Driven Boulder
 4
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Gold Medal Tompson St Rese… > … > Great Swamp Bou… > Swamp 2 Boulders
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Flawless Agassiz Rock Re… > Agassiz Rock > Egg Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Gun Shot Arete Dogtown > Rifle Range Bou… > Gun Shot Boulder
 4
V6- 7A Boulder
Final Judgment Dyke's Pond (Gl… > N Side > Beehive Boulders
 10
V6 7A Boulder
Toe Jams Redrock & vicinity
 66
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Zipper Redrock & vicinity
 145
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Roll the Bones Redrock & vicinity
 38
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Steps Redrock & vicinity
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zits Redrock & vicinity
 38
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Morning Glory Redrock & vicinity
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Doug's Roof Down Under
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Cape Ann »

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