Elevation: 47 ft
GPS: 42.619, -70.667 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 847,647 total · 5,592/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

Description

Cape Ann is the bulge of land north of Boston on which Gloucester is the largest city and one of the oldest functioning seaports in the New World. This area is studded throughout with a wealth of granite, mainly boulders and short cliffs. Tucked away in the woods of Gloucester, Rockport, Essex, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and Marblehead as well as other towns are few-and-far-between bouldering destinations and cliff bands with high quality routes on exquisite, bulletproof New England granite.

The local ethos of Cape Ann has traditionally been to develop pure lines which are not contrived eliminates and do not detract from established problems or routes. Please respect that spirit and refrain from posting contrived eliminate boulder problems or routes from this area on Mountain Project.

Getting There

Drive north from Boston on I-93 to the junction of I-95 and Route 128. Peabody bouldering exists right at this junction of highways. All destinations in Gloucester and other neighboring towns straddle Route 128 after its divergence from I-95 as it heads toward Gloucester.

Special Note

To avoid difficulty in finding perhaps the best known of the Cape Ann crags, Redrock, this particular crag has been left out separately under the general Massachusetts page, since some climbers, even locals, do not necessarily think first to look under Cape Ann when looking for Redrock.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cape Ann

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 4
Freshly Squeezed
Boulder
V4 6B
 13
Plumb Line
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 17
Total Recall
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 4
Thee Off-width
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Gold Medal
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Flawless
Boulder
V6- 7A
 4
Gun Shot Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 11
Final Judgment
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 42
Roll the Bones
Sport, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 73
Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 164
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Steps
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 43
Zits
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
Morning Glory
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Rip Van Winkle
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Freshly Squeezed Rockport S Woods > Megatron Area > Lunch Break Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Plumb Line Tompson St Rese… > … > Great Swamp Bou… > Swamp 2 Boulders
 13
V4 6B Boulder
Total Recall Dyke's Pond (Gl… > E Side > Trailside Boulder 2
 17
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Thee Off-width Tompson St Rese… > Concord St Entr… > Driven Boulder
 4
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Gold Medal Tompson St Rese… > … > Great Swamp Bou… > Swamp 2 Boulders
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Flawless Agassiz Rock Re… > Agassiz Rock > Egg Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Gun Shot Arete Dogtown > Rifle Range Bou… > Gun Shot Boulder
 4
V6- 7A Boulder
Final Judgment Dyke's Pond (Gl… > N Side > Beehive Boulders
 11
V6 7A Boulder
Roll the Bones Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 42
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Toe Jams Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 73
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Zipper Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 164
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Steps Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zits Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 43
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Morning Glory Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rip Van Winkle Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Cape Ann »

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