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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Unknown... first lead on bolts by Matt Natti
Page Views: 1,449 total, 19/month
Shared By: mnatti on Nov 6, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a THIN crimp and pull up (crux) to balancy moves on cool features. The line wanders a bit, so don't think "straight up." The side wall on the right is in for the start and if you get to the Toe Jams crack, you've gone to far left. This line was probably soloed years ago, and in fact a Toe Jams variation exits the crack half way and finishes on the upper slab of Happy Feet. The bolts were added in the summer of 2011 after the line got a good cleaning. Enjoy.

Location

This is the slab line just right of Toe Jams, on the Main Wall, just left of an easy gully. Standing on a dirt ledge 8 feet up from the actual ground, look for a thin, crescent moon shaped crimp (for your right hand).

Protection

3 bolts to rings.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
5.9+
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
5.9+
Still have never gotten this line. Shenanigans on 5.8. Jan 16, 2013
mnatti
 
mnatti  
 
A Cape Ann sandbag? The start was easy the first day I did it... though it has spit me off plenty of times after! I always prefer grading a bit low, until a others have chimed in, but 5.9 is legal in my book. Dec 6, 2011
jim.dangle
  5.9+
jim.dangle  
  5.9+
The first move is pretty stiff. Maybe harder than 5.8. Nov 27, 2011