All Locations > Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vicinity

Sunshine Wall AKA South Wall Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Sunshine Wall AKA South Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blind Faith T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dangles Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
	Kimchi S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rusty Nail, The A1-
	Stepping Stone TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c V2 5+

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Elevation:	30 ft	9 m
GPS:	42.6147, -70.7311 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,402 total · 43/month
Shared By:	Chris McNeil on Jan 24, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This crag makes it offical, that the Redrocks conservation area contains a little bit of everything. This beautiful wall is about 200+ feet long; only about 15 to 30 feet high, most of the wall is overhanging with some amazing lines. There are a handful of very low grade tradable lines, but most of the lines are in the 5.10 and up region.

This crag faces south to Route 128 and will be dry by mid-day if the sun is out after a rain. This is also the only south-facing crag in the Redrocks area.

L->R:

A. Kimchi, 10, 1p, 15', bolts or TR.
B. The Rusty Nail, A1-, 1p, 20', gear & bolts.
C. Dangles Crack, 10+, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Getting There

You can either:

1) follow the trail from the north end of main wall past the Pet Slabs, take a left onto the white diamond trail, than a right at the tee intersection to stay on white diamond. Take a left after 50’ onto the red flagged trail. Take this up the hill. 10 mins from main wall.

2) take the red blazed trail that starts to the left of Pink Floyd wall and meanders directly to Sunshine Wall. 12 mins from Pink Floyd.

Nearby Crags

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall AKA South Wall