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Routes in Sunshine Wall

Blind Faith T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dangles Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kimchi S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rusty Nail, The A1-
Elevation: 30 ft
GPS: 42.615, -70.731 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,784 total · 38/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

Description

This crag makes it offical, that the Redrocks conservation area contains a little bit of everything. This beautiful wall is about 200+ feet long; only about 15 to 30 feet high, most of the wall is overhanging with some amazing lines. There are a handful of very low grade tradable lines, but most of the lines are in the 5.10 and up region.

This crag faces south to Route 128 and will be dry by mid-day if the sun is out after a rain. This is also the only south-facing crag in the Redrocks area.

L->R:

A. Kimchi, 10, 1p, 15', bolts or TR.
B. The Rusty Nail, A1-, 1p, 20', gear & bolts.
C. Dangles Crack, 10+, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

Getting There

You can either follow the trail from the north end of main wall down through the swamp past some nice but uncleaned slabs until you hear the highway. Or, you can walk up over the top on main wall to a trail on the south end of the summit. The connecting trail is under development.

Nearby Crags

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kimchi
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangles Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kimchi
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Dangles Crack
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR
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