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Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 203 ft
GPS: 42.62, -70.727 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,403 total · 84/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer


Have you been to Redrock? You can't get enough of that North Shore granite? Wish there was more? Well, there is.

The following are a few far flung curiosities sitting singly, silently, and largely untrammeled in the woods near the classics Zipper, Laughing Gull, and others at the Main Wall at Redrocks.


Down Under

A. Premature Escalation, V0-, 10'.
B. Sleek Streek, 11- or V1. 12'.
C. ?.
D. Crippler, V1, 1p, 15', TR or boulder.
E. Flaming Galah, V2, 12'.
F. Cape Ann Fingerbang, V3 11, 25'.
G. ?.
Center Left
H? Cloak and Dagger, V2, 20'.
I? Right Arete Project, V3?, 12'.
J? Vegamite, V2, 8'.
K. ?.
Center Right
L. Splitter, 8+ - 9, 1p, 30-40', gear or TR.
M. Second Pitch Face, 10-, 1p, 40', TR.
N. Corner Crack, 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
O. No Pro, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
P. Ball of Confusion, 7, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Q. Eric's Route, 10, 1p, 40', gear & bolt or TR.
R. Chippas Crack, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
S. Tony the Tiger, 6, 1p, 40', TR.
T. The Least Of The Deceased, 10-, 1p, 25', TR.
U. The Beast From The East, 11+, 1p, 20', TR.
V. Down Over, 5, 1p, 20', bolts.
W. Down Under, 10-, 1p, 25', bolt & gear or TR.
X. Blocks, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

The Head
Y. Doug's Nose, V2+.
Z. Doug's Roof, 11- or V2, 1p, 20', gear or boulder.

Close by to the south is Oz.

Getting There

Since most items in this list sit alone, approaches are listed accordingly.

Per Chris McNeil: follow the main trail from the parking lot East along Route 128 until you pass the storage units. Turn north after the storage units and follow a trail to the pipeline. Head North on the pipeline until you see either Oz on the left or a tree stand up about 10 feet in a tree on the right. Follow the cairns and trail to Down Under. It is approximately a little over 1/3 mile.

Other Nearby Crags

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Down Under

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
Doug's Nose
V2 5+
Cloak and Dagger
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Doug's Roof
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Doug's Nose
V2 5+ Boulder
Cloak and Dagger
V2 5+ Boulder
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Doug's Roof
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Down Under »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Beverly MA
ductapeclimber   Beverly MA
We found fresh shit on at the base of the climb on 9/12/15. Watch where you sit. Sep 15, 2015
Cambridge, MA
coldatom   Cambridge, MA
We found some fresh shit on the start of Blocks on 6/1/2013. Looked like dog shit, rather than from people. When we first got to the crag, I saw a woman by Doug's Roof, but she disappeared like a ghost when she saw us. Jun 3, 2013
Holds around Down Under seem shit-free as of 10/9/12.

Jim Nov 9, 2012
Heard there was some shit smeared around down there. Has it been cleaned at all? Nov 4, 2012
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Just wanted to add that as you are walking along the small cliff-line of Down Under towards Doug's Roof, you will be able to see the Cape Ann Veterinary Hospital (big brown building) off to your right (east).

If it is winter and the leaves are down, it will seem VERY CLOSE to you. So please be respectful by keeping noise to a minimum if it's during business hours. The owner is understanding of climbers, but let's keep that image positive.

Climb it while it's good! Once this cliff gets hit with ice, it will be June before we're climbing it again. Dec 22, 2011
It's now a bit more clear a path to Down Under. Go around!! the storage units and follow the pipe line up the hill. At the top and across the trail on the right, there is tree stand in the tree with cairns leading the way to a decent trail. Follow it to Down Under. Bring a brush and clean some rock. Refer to the picture to find your way. Dec 22, 2011

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