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Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Brendan Blanchard(?)
Page Views: 448 total, 7/month
Shared By: Brendan Blanchard on May 12, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is a neat problem starting on a flake that ends just when you need it most. Look for the "Dagger," a loose (but secure) block hanging over the face.

This climbs the flake/face just right of the block. Continue up the blank looking face with small nubbins and crimps. The topout is definitely highball, but the crux is the last six or so feet below the topout.

Location

This is on Down Under, on the long face between the other established boulder problems and the face that contains "Splitter."

Walk off the climber's left from the ledge, take the trail around or just scramble down the base off left.

Protection

Two pads, two spotters is ideal. Make sure that the climber doesn't hit the ankle/knee breaker block directly under the climb.

Optional TR from gear (#2, 0.5, 0.3 BD works well).

Photos

Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
I can't imagine it "fell." I've sat on the edge of that thing. Given the amount of cans, baggies, graffiti, etc. that you can find on a short walk around the area, I'm guessing someone had a lot of fun and ruined a cool feature of the cliff. Jan 24, 2015
There was major rockfall here recently. The large detached flake (referred to above as "the dagger") has now fallen off and is laying at the base along with another larger flake.

I'm surprised this fell off as the cliffs in Redrock are generally pretty stable. Not sure if it was trundled or not.

Jim Jan 21, 2015
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
If you know a previous ascent or the FA, let me know and I can change details as needed. May 12, 2012