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Oz Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Oz

L › R R › L A › Z

	Commander Salamander Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Commander Salamander Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dorothy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Emerald City T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Flying Monkey, The S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lollipop Gang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Man Behind the Curtain, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Munchkin T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Oil Can T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Oz Boulder V1 5
	Oz Chimney V0 4
	Oz Slab TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Ruby Slippers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Scared Crow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tin Man T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Toto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Yellow Brick Road S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	114 ft
GPS:	42.6181, -70.7266 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,323 total · 139/month
Shared By:	Chris McNeil on Dec 19, 2011
Admins:	Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Oz is a great sport and trad area of Redrocks. Only 30 feet tall, it is short but sweet for slab and crack climbs. Also, it is a great alternative for when main crag is end to end with TRs. It is pretty shady here, but most of the rock dries pretty quick. TR anchors present fall of 2011.

There are also some awesome boulder problems that run across the top of this crag. Follow the trail marked with tape either from the left side of auntie em, or from the right side of the crag starting at oz boulder.

Oz

L->R:

Left Face
A. Commander Salamander Slab, 9, 1p, 25', TR.
B. Commander Salamander Crack, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
C. Oz Slab, 11, 1p, 30', TR.
D. Emerald City, 7 PG-13, 1p, 25', bolt/gear.
E. Scarecrow, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
F. Yellow Brick Road, 8+, 1p, 25', bolts.
G1. Ruby Slippers, 10+, 1[, 25', bolts.
G2. Tin Man, 8, 1p, 25', gear or TR.
H. Flying Monkey, 6, 1p, 20', bolts.

Center Arete

I. Munchkin, 9, 1p, 15', TR.
J. Oil Can, 11, 1p, 15', gear or TR.
K. Lollipop Gang, 8, 1p, 15', TR.

Right face
L. Dorothy, 6, 1p, 15', gear or TR.
M. Toto, 8, 1p, 20', gear and bolt.
N. Man Behind the Curtain, 6, 1p, 20', gear.

O. Oz Chimney, V0, 10'.

P. Oz Boulder, V1, 8'.

Close by to the north is the Down Under area.

Getting There

Park in the same lot as if you were heading to Main Wall or Pink Floyd Wall from Redrock. Follow the main trail west along Route 128 from the parking lot until you pass the storage units. Turn north and go around the storage unit to get to the pipeline trail. Once on the pipe line, follow about 100 yards uphill until you see a tree stand in a tree 10 feet up on the right, Oz is about 50 feet in the woods to your left. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.

You can also get to Oz from main crag of Redrock by following the trail past the north end and Master's Wall east. It is approximately 150 yards.

Other Nearby Crags

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oz

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 4 ● The Man Behind the Curtain Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 7 ● The Flying Monkey Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 16 ● Tin Man Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 3 ● Toto Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Yellow Brick Road Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Scared Crow Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 3 ● Ruby Slippers Sport