Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 1,622 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Nov 29, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Follow the obvious crack that goes straight up the bottom face to the ledge. At the bottom of the top face, continue up a crack transfering to another crack to top out. The switch over is the crux of the climb and is a little tricky to protect.

Location

This route is at "Down Under" a hidden gem of Redrocks. Follow the pipeline from the storage units to Oz, but when you see Oz off the trail on your left, look up to the right for a wooden treestand. Go straight into the woods from the tree stand, follow the rock face until you see something tasty to climb.

Protection

Nuts, cams, slings. TR anchors on top of the "Second Pitch Face" center and far right end.
jim.dangle  
 
The transition in the upper crack protects well with microcams.

Hard route to grade, because there is really only a short tricky section and the rest is straightforward.

Jim Sep 27, 2014
A nice line with great jams and moderate for the grade...like most of the routes here, you wish it lasted longer. Jul 25, 2012
mnatti  
Okay... so Herb says this line is called "Splitter." Ball's of Confusion is the wide crack just right of "No Pro" (which you got the name right on). I'm going to try to get Herb down there for a full walk around in the next few days. I'll need a tape recorder for sure! Dec 28, 2011
Corey Baker  
 
This is a true statment, but it's new climbing for a lot of us and it is fun to open it back up for all. And yes some TR anchors would be ideal. Don't exactly trust the few aged looking bolts there now. Let Chris and I know when you are heading out, you know where to find us. Dec 16, 2011
mnatti  
"New line" is always up for debate with the likes of Herb Stillman running around. I'm pretty sure the man has climbed every piece of granite in Cape Ann (barefoot, with no rope and no cleaning!). If nothing else, he knows someone who HAS climbed it. That being said... get out and scrub. Name lines (be willing to change them IF they already have a name), and let's keep the Cape Ann renaissance alive! I'll be showing up Down Under with some TR anchors sooner than later. Dec 16, 2011
Corey Baker  
 
Chris and I have spent some time down there trying to reclaim some new climbing in the Cape Ann scene, ...so much cleaning left to do so grab a brush and clean a new line. Dec 15, 2011
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Hey Chris, good to see someone is active with their scrubby reclaiming some nice Cape Ann granite. Would like to meet up and put some work in myself. Have lots of free time, so let me know...,. Dec 15, 2011
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Yes, there are probably close to a dozen climbs at 'Down Under' that are currently being cleaned. Really amazing variations on the "first pitch" and great crack and slab lines on the "second pitch". No bolts though, the only ones there are NOT user friendly. Dec 11, 2011
HBTHREE
ma
HBTHREE   ma
This is that crack left of Doug's Roof isn't it, up the hill a little? There are a few lines here, used to be some bolts on the slabs. Needs a cleaning, but I remember 5 or so lines I'd do to make the roof trek worth it. Might have been in the "Boston Rolls" book with a different name and grade. Dec 4, 2011