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Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Herb Stillman
Page Views: 183 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Use hand and foot jams on this nice flaring crack to the top.

Location

This is between No Pro and Eric's Route. It's the large crack in the middle of the face.

Protection

TR or lead with BD Camalots #0.75-#2.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Eric. With some solid dry condition for several day this line dries out. It's a trying jam line and like everything in cape Ann properly sandbagged Sep 8, 2012
I'm just starting to explore this area, but for what it is worth, this one felt harder (to me) than Splitter or Tin Man. The jams were wet when I tried it (which I'm guessing is not uncommon, because everything else around was dry), but even if dry seems like this would make a pretty tough 5.6 compared to other similarly graded routes in the area. Solid gear though, despite being a bit flaring. Jul 25, 2012
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
I would lean more towards Herb's grade of 5.9. Not as easy as it looks, and gear in the middle of it questionable. Ballnut, RP and 00 was what I was fiddling with. Too flaring in middle but maybe an offset? Jul 7, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
This line was originally lead onsight by Herb Stillman. Only digging out the crack to place gear in and using the face for holds, he stated that it was 5.9 then. But thanks to Mr. John Chippa, this crack is cleaner than ever and a beautiful 5.6 crack line. Feb 19, 2012