Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Herb Stillman
Page Views: 266 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Use hand and foot jams on this nice flaring crack to the top.

Location

This is between No Pro and Eric's Route. It's the large crack in the middle of the face.

Protection

TR or lead with BD Camalots #0.75-#2.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.6
This line was originally lead onsight by Herb Stillman. Only digging out the crack to place gear in and using the face for holds, he stated that it was 5.9 then. But thanks to Mr. John Chippa, this crack is cleaner than ever and a beautiful 5.6 crack line. Feb 19, 2012
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
I would lean more towards Herb's grade of 5.9. Not as easy as it looks, and gear in the middle of it questionable. Ballnut, RP and 00 was what I was fiddling with. Too flaring in middle but maybe an offset? Jul 7, 2012
I'm just starting to explore this area, but for what it is worth, this one felt harder (to me) than Splitter or Tin Man. The jams were wet when I tried it (which I'm guessing is not uncommon, because everything else around was dry), but even if dry seems like this would make a pretty tough 5.6 compared to other similarly graded routes in the area. Solid gear though, despite being a bit flaring. Jul 25, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Eric. With some solid dry condition for several day this line dries out. It's a trying jam line and like everything in cape Ann properly sandbagged Sep 8, 2012