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Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
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Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: Herb Stillman or Doug Millen
Page Views: 142 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 8, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Start beneath the single bolt on the west side of the gully which separates the rock containing Doug's Roof from the rest of the crag. Climb straight up towards the bolt. The crux is at the bolt. With an underhand right crimp and good feet, take a big left hand reach and stand up to the rail up and left of the bolt. reach around with your right hand and set up for a big pump up on the pocket on top the rail. after the pump reach over the lip with your left hand for a good hold and top out.


This route is in the gully on the east end of Down Under which is between Doug's Roof and No Pro. Look for the single bolt.


There is a single bolt on this route to protect the crux. I have no idea when it was put in, but it looks ok. The TR anchors were placed in the winter of 2012.


The story goes that Doug Millen claimed that he had put in a bolt and bagged first ascent of this line. He told Herb about it, Herb went to climb and climbed it, ground up, but saw no bolt. The next day, when he returned... the bolt was there. One of the two of them got the first ascent... but only the rock knows for sure! Mar 3, 2012

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